Cotswold Way - Stage 6

 

Wotton-under-Edge to Dursley – 17 June 2019

from Tyndale Monument

The weather was set fair and we four were keen to get another stage of the Cotswold Way completed. Before we could all meet up again at Didcot station P informed us that he couldn’t join us on the advice of his doctor. There is no need to go into detail but a strenuous walk up and down the scarp face of the Cotswolds was not what the Doctor had ordered. Therefore, here we were again, at 75% attendance, on a “No P day”. A great pity as today we took a different route and headed to Stroud and completed a (new to us) bit of the railway from Kemble to Stroud.

Above Wotton-under-Edge

To take advantage of off-peak fares we took the 10:17 from Didcot and arrived in Stroud at 11:05. We found a taxi outside and were soon being whisked though the Nailsworth Valley towards Wotton-under-Edge. The valleys on this side of the Cotswolds had some similarities to the old industrial valleys of Yorkshire. Old textile mills seemed much in evidence and N was feeling at home. We guess this was an obvious consequence of the geography, wool from sheep on the nearby hills, combined with a plentiful supply of water from numerous springs. This old industrial landscape has now morphed into a few fancy up-markets apartments but mainly a succession of outlet malls for cheap carpets, furniture and pottery.

The taxi made good progress and we were soon on the top of the Cotswolds getting glimpses of the views to the west. Descended into Wotton and were dropped off in the centre of town were we finished last time. Just for the record it took 25 minutes from Stroud.

Our route took us through the main street (appropriately named “Long Street”) of this attractive town, which was reasonably busy for a Monday late morning. Unfortunately no time for morning coffee or a pie!

Panorama from Wotton Hill

Just to the north of the town was our first climb of the day, up Wotton Hill. Later on in the day we remarked that it was probably a good idea to have this steep climb early in the day. Actually it wasn’t that early as by the time we got to the top of the hill it had gone midday!

Jubilee Plantation

There is a circular plantation of trees on the top of the hill planted to celebrate the victory of the Battle of Waterloo. However when the Crimean War was settled they chopped the trees down to have a celebratory bonfire. The good people of Wotton then planted some more trees for Queen Victoria’s golden jubilee in 1897 and that it why it is known as Jubilee Plantation, (Grid Ref: ST7523 9371).

Tyndale Monument

We took a few minutes to get our collective breath and take in the view and then proceed through Westridge wood towards the Tyndale Monument (ST7432 9563) above North Nibley. We mentioned William Tyndale when we passed through Little Sodbury on 26 November 2018. The 34m high monument was erected in 1866 to the memory of said Tyndale who translated the Bible into English and who was later martyred during the reign of Queen Mary.

We took advantage of a bench nearby to have our lunch and enjoy the splendid, if rather blustery, views along the Cotswold ridge and out towards the Severn estuary and valley.

The path dropped off the ridge, down through woods, into the village of North Nibley. There was a pub but we didn’t stop. According to our guide book, the nearby Nibley Green was were in 1470 the last battle fought in England between private armies took place.

Watering Hole

We passed on through the village and came to an awkward bend in the B4060 before crossing the Doverte Brook. Just up the path the house owner / farmer had hooked up a fridge with chilled water within and a drinking water fountain for the thirsty and parched, (ST7415 9678). There was an honesty box for contributions. N partook.

Have to climb this again!

The well-trodden path took us across wheat fields and a slow climb towards the edge of the Cotswolds again.

The climb increased in gradient as we went up through the trees but just as we were about to complain about the climb we came out at the summit next to Stinchcombe Golf Course which occupies most of the plateau of Stinchcombe Hill.

We had a choice take the short cut across to the clubhouse or take the designated path around the golf course (plateau). We were doing OK for time so opted for the latter and its promise of views.

It was still windy and there was the odd spit of rain but nothing to worry about. The path was well signed and did give some excellent views back the way we had come and out towards the Brecon Beacons and the Forest of Dean.

We came across a memorial bench, “Nick’s Bench” with some intriguing Lat. and Longs carved into it, (ST73996 98204). N passed photos onto P who had been monitoring our progress. Nick was a local doctor and had sadly died young. The coordinates P confirmed as being small towns in China and Cambodia. The local coordinates seem to be not the bench as first thought but the tee for one of the holes on the golf course, (5th tee?).

Spot the M5

We carried on around the hill top, and could hear traffic on the M5 about a mile or so to the west (upwind). We eventually passed the clubhouse and took the path down to Dursley. This was a lengthy slope and we were glad not to have had to climb it. We came out into the built up area of Dursley and found the Old Spot Inn (ST7537 9808). The “Spot” as it is known was CAMRA National Pub of the Year in 2007/8 and CAMRA Gloucestershire Pub of the Year in 2013. Well we couldn’t miss this and popped in for a quick half pint. Yes that was all the time we could afford as the bus to Stroud was imminent. We must revisit the Spot, as it was it certainly ranks an 8/10. Luckily the bus stop was next to the pub.

Dog Roses

The bus back to Stroud took 40 minutes via the A38 and Stonehouse and various industrial parks (Home of Swedish SKF- Super Precision Bearings though this plant is due to close in 2021.) We arrived in Stroud and made our way via a carpark to the station. We had about half an hour in hand so visited a nearby Weatherspoon’s pub, The Lord John, (4/10) purely for the purposes of rehydration. At £1.89 to £1.99 a pint for ale you can understand how some people find it difficult to keep to just one pint.

The return train was on time at 17:04 but we had to change trains at Swindon to comply with split ticket arrangements.

Overall a good day for walking, not too hot and it didn’t rain. True we only walked 7.15 miles (11.4km) in a total of four hours but it was a refreshing walk and an opportunity to exchange family news. Tory Leadership race and Brexit got very little coverage! Once P is back in action we will be back in Dursley to start the next stage (and perhaps visit the Old Spot Inn?)