Cross-Cotswold Pathway - Stage 6

Chedworth Roman Villa to North Cerney – Friday 25 November 2016

Three months have passed since we were at Chedworth RV in the summer. It’s been a busy time for some of us and combinations of work commitments, family duties and poor weather had reduced our options to walk. Getting back to where we left off last time involved quite a journey, train to Swindon, bus to Cirencester and then taxi to Chedworth Villa. By the time we started walking it was 11:50 therefore this short stage was really a afternoon stroll!

A Cotswold view near Chedworth

Oh joy here we are back at Swindon Bus Station. Something has changed though. The large, dark grey, building in the middle has been demolished letting a bit more sunshine fall upon the bus travelling public. The bus to Cirencester via Cricklade and many villages on the way was surprisingly busy. We eventually rocked-up in Cirencester and found a taxi in the market place. The taxi driver briefed us on progress of the market place road works, traffic problems on the road to Stow-on-the-Wold and then on his recent holiday in Hong Kong. (“Ten pound a pint, you know.”)

The weather looked promising, sunny but a cool wind from the north-east. The path took us up the hill away from the villa into the woods that surround the head of this secluded valley. We went under the line of a disused railway which seemed quite wide, not the normal single track rural line. Job for when we get back, find out what the line used to be.

Our research found that this was the line of the Midland and South Western Junction Railway (M&SWJR) from Andoversford on the Chipping Norton to Cheltenham line to Andover via Cricklade, Cirencester, Swindon and Marlborough. This line offered a link from the Midlands to Southampton. Just think what it would be like if it hadn't closed. The problems of the lack of capacity on the Didcot to Banbury and the Oxford bottle neck would be long-gone. (Sorry railway nerd stuff).

Chedworth church

Over the hill and down another valley into the village of Chedworth. We stopped outside the church to take a picture. Like many of these Cotswold villages it was all very quiet, the odd “white van” parked up undertaking domestic maintenance to wood burning stoves and Aga cookers in time for Christmas? The only person we saw was a lady slowly cycling along with an eclectic collection of items in her cycle basket. Where was she going? Was it a secret tryst or a lunchtime yoga-in-the-village session? Whoever she was seeing they obviously weren't in as about five minutes later she returned heading back the way she had come. There was an interesting looking pub in the village, “The Seven Tuns” but it was too early into our walk to stop so we carried on up a short hill and across the fields towards Rendcomb.

Near the site of RFC Rendcomb

It was about 1pm so we found a sunny sheltered spot by a hedgerow to have our respective lunch snacks. After the short stop and a time to chat and catch-up on three months worth of family news we set off towards the village of Rendcomb. Walking down a lane we were stopped by a motorist who was looking for the site of the World War I airfield RFC Rendcomb (Royal Flying Corps). We had seen mention of this in the book and T, who had a map handy sent the chap on his way. It was only later plotting the walk on Google Earth that T realised he had sent the chap the wrong way. He should have turned right at the end of the lane not left as misdirected!

Rendcomb village

Our path turned off the lane above the village to head through woods above the village of Rendcomb and its private school (college) with interesting European style buildings. We were now on the diversion to Cirencester following the Monarch's Way. Our later studies revealed that the Monarch's Way is supposed to be the 615 mile route taken by Charles II when he fled from the Battle of Worcester and made his way to the south coast to escape to France. It wasn't a direct route and his first departure point at Charmouth was a failure. T was sure there was a story about the wife of the ship's master hiding his britches so he couldn't sail the escaping Royal party to France – probably some sort of myth.

The path through the woods skirted a field of a strange tall yellow-orange crop that had us mystified. We guessed it was some sort of bio-fuel crop, probably Miscanthus (Elephant grass), but who knows. Bet it wasn't there when Charles II passed by!

Trees above Rendcomb

The shadows were getting longer and it was fairly clear we weren't going to get to Cirencester before dark. We therefore decided to make it to North Cerney have a drink and catch the Stagecoach 51 bus back to Swindon.

The Bathurst Arms pub in North Cerney looked inviting, we rated it 7 out of 10. Our sort of pub, no carpet to get muddy! It was warm, the beer was interesting (Otter Beer – quite bitter) and everyone seemed to be friendly. There was an adjacent hotel and as is usual in these places the pub did food. It was half-past two and the last of the lunchtime eaters were just leaving. After a drink, loo visit and warm up we went outside to wait for the bus. It was nearly 30 minutes late. The journey back to Swindon took an hour and a half. So plenty of time to plan the next leg and agree that we will start in Cirencester next time (early 2017?)Trains out of Swindon towards London were also delayed due to “vandalism” but the delay wasn't too bad. We said our farewells and headed to respective homes.

An afternoon ramble of 4.9 miles, more time spent travelling than walking but overall it was good to get out into the Cotswold countryside.  We were lucky with the weather and the walking wasn't too hard. Perhaps it has to be O-day, Old railway line, Old airfield, and “Oh dear, we didn't walk that far!”

Training walks - late Summer 2016

A fine day on the Chiltern scarp

Well the weather has remained fine so with N still away on a Caribbean jaunt (sorry, business trip) we (P & T) continued our circular walks in South Oxfordshire. Here are a couple of walks for the album.

As on previous outings we used the description and route given in Oxfordshire Country Walks – South Chilterns and Thames by Mary Webb, Alan Spicer and Allister Smith for the Stoke Row walk.

 

 

Stoke Row – Friday 23 September 2016

Maharajah's Well

T met P in Sonning Common and headed to Stoke Row and parked in the Village Hall car park opposite the Maharajah’s Well (Grid reference SU6796 8407 ). More details about this OTT well can be found at http://www.stokerow.net/well1b.asp

After having a look at the well and taking pictures we headed away from the village into the beech woods towards Checkendon to join Judges Road in Ipsden Wood. In the Spring this is a great place for bluebells. It was really quite a warm day so the shade of the woods was welcome. Lucky for P it was also dry as he had forgotten his walking boots! His shoes were fairly stout and there were no complaints. About a week earlier there had been quite a cloud-burst and thunder storm and we were to see evidence all day of eroded pathways and gravel fans across the country lanes.

Woodland - near Berins Hill

The path crossed the Stoke Row to Checkendon road towards Scot’s Farm and headed through woods sporting some magnificent tall trees. The path was well marked, someone in the past has carefully waymarked the paths with strategically placed white arrows painted on robust tree trunks. We climbed up to Garson’s Lane, past the farm of the same name.

The woodland path was starting to descend the scarp slope of the Chilterns. The woodland stopped and we were treated to a great view at SU6505 8476 looking westwards towards Ipsden and Hailey (well known for the King William IV pub (known as the King Willy or Billy).

Towards Hailey

We dropped down to Warrens Chase and then headed back up hill by way of an ancient hollow way before turning northwards again to Wellplace Farm. Years ago there used to be a small zoo near here specialising in pheasants.

The track way then headed eastwards to slowly climb back up the Chiltern scarp slope towards Ipsden Heath.

Handsmooth

The view uphill is dominated by the new development at Handsmooth, (SU6569 8557). 

The Mail Online referred to this on 22 February 2016 as (quote) Rowan Atkinson's Oxfordshire mansion is finally taking shape after a decade-long planning row with neighbours. “Mr Bean” star has finally completed his dream home dubbed a 'space age petrol station' due to its unique exterior (unquote).

The views from the spot must be great and one can see why it was chosen. The structure has yet to blend into the Chiltern landscape and as we found on the following walk it is all too easy to see from a distance!

As we emerged onto the minor road in Ipsden Heath there was plenty of evidence in the form of erosion and sediment from the runoff from the recent torrential rain.

Hundridge (Waste) Farm

The path then followed a track past Hundridge Farm, south-east towards Cox’s lane and Stoke Row. The book makes no mention of the mess around Hundridge Farm (SU6687 8548), old skips full of waste that had obviously been there for many years but concentrates upon fairy circles!

This is supposed to be a registered waste transfer site with regular visits from compliance officers from South Oxfordshire. How anyone can justify storing many tens of skips full of old building waste in the countryside, next to a public footpath for many years is beyond us. An environmental disgrace and obviously financial madness.

The countryside finally improved as we neared Stoke Row. Time for some packed lunch and then back to the village and return home via a welcome cup of tea in Sonning Common. A walk of 5.5 miles (just as the book said).

Lovely woods and an unexpected view marred to some extent by a challenging house and the waste land of Hundridge farm.

Above Warrens Chase (SU6505 8476)

South Stoke – Friday 14 October 2016

It was obviously time for another walk in the South Oxfordshire countryside. T had woken early one morning having a nightmare about Logical Frameworks! It was P’s turn to plan, met up at his home and drove to South Stoke, (Grid reference SU5983 8363). We were joined by a guest walker, known by the name of Rascal (R is a small dog belonging to a friend of P’s.) We started late at 11:30 as P had a barbers appointment earlier in the day.

View from Watch Folly

The day started misty but it was dry. Definite feel of autumn in the air and the leaves on the trees were starting to turn colour. We started from the centre of the village (we were last here on the Ridgeway walk #7 in December 2009). Headed east under the railway, over the B4009 (Wallingford to Goring road) and out along the Woodcote Road stepping aside several times for the large tractors and trailers of an agricultural contractor harvesting maize. We then headed NE below White Hill. Rascal was able to come off the lead as we took a straight path towards Watch Folly. T noted that this marked footpath was not on his OS Explorer map 171. (Time to invest in a new map perhaps?) At the top of Watch Folly (SU6205 8457)  there is some shelter so this was an obvious place to stop and have a late lunch break and take in the nearly 360 degree view. We could clearly see Rowan Atkinson’s Handsmooth House (see walk on 23 September 2016).

Can still see Handsmooth

The plan was to continue in roughly the same direction towards Larkstoke and then back via North Stoke. Both of us were feeling weary so we opted to head west towards Little Stoke. As we crossed the B4009 again the contrast from open chalk land with big fields to the smaller hedged fields nearer the river Thames was very marked. The impact of underlying geology can make such a difference to the landscape and man-made scenery of the country. At Little Stoke it was a short step to the Thames (SU6016 8545 ) opposite Cholsey Ferry. We then walked back along the Thames, under the railway bridge and back to South Stoke retracing (in reverse the course of the Ridgeway walk we did in December 2009.) It was then a short drive back to P's house for the traditional cup of tea.

A pleasant, much needed walk even if it wasn't that far - 4.9 miles (but who’s counting). We need to plan the next Cotswold walk.

Cross-Cotswold Pathway - Stage 5

Cold Ashton to Chedworth Roman Villa – Friday 26 August 2016

We always knew that this section of the pathway would present us with difficulties in getting to and from the beginning and end of the walk. The response we had from Pulham’s Coaches was hardly helpful. In simple terms they do not intend to stop anywhere except at the principal towns on their routes. They claim that other websites may suggest that their buses stop at intermediate stops but that is not their fault and they are making moves to correct this. They don’t appear to have done anything about this as so far and the unwary bus user is probably still left waiting for buses that zoom by.

Countryside between Cold Aston & Turkdean

As a consequence we decided to avoid this unhelpful company and drove to Chedworth Roman Villa (National Trust), (see https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chedworth-roman-villa) and then arranged for a taxi from Cirencester to take us to Cold Aston to start the walk. This all worked well, T drove from Reading, picked up P on the way and then they met N in Carterton, who had taken the S2 bus from Oxford. N had already found the pie shop by the time he reached the ASDA car park in Carterton as he greeted us - hot pasty in hand. So here we are in Carterton again, we thought we had made our last visit last year doing the Seven Shires Way!

Bangup Lane

We then drove to the said site of the Roman Villa (one of the best in the UK), parked the car and waited ten minutes for the taxi to turn-up. It did so – on time and we were whisked off to Cold Aston which seemed an awfully long way. (Well done P for arranging the taxi).

We set off walking at 10:45 and went wrong in the first field we soon realised our mistake and got back on the correct path which uses the Macmillan Way for much of the route. The weather was perfect for walking, not too hot, the occasional cloud but no risk of rain.

Turkdean cottage

The route took us past Bangup Barn over a Cotswold ridge and dry valley to the pretty village of Turkdean which had all the usual Cotswold style houses and cottages much sought after on TV programmes like “Escape to the Country”.

Turkdean church

Down another steep sided dry valley and then a slow climb up a lane to the A40 trunk road (links Oxford to Cheltenham). As we dawdled along we were overtaken by a purposeful, older walker, was he doing the Macmillan Way? We don’t know as he didn’t stop to talk. We passed him further on in Hampnett, were he was taking his sandwiches.

Big house, Hampnett

Hampnett was the next village, here again a lovely example of Cotswoldness. From the map it is clear that there are several springs here that are the source of the River Leach, an important consequent tributary of the River Thames. The village seemed to have big gaps between existing buildings and what appeared to be the relics of medieval house platforms (we don’t watch Time Team for nothing you know). Perhaps the village had been decimated in the Black Death?

Hampnett church

Seeing the speedy walker reminded us that it was lunchtime. “Let’s  just find a spot in the shade with a view”. Well after just over a mile we eventually stopped, not too bad, a wall to sit on, in the shade, but a bit smelly as the adjacent field had recently been spread with chicken muck. T checked the book and map and read the story about the “Hangman Stone”, only we weren’t there. We had followed the Monarch’s Way from Hampnett and not the Macmillan Way. All T’s fault, he didn’t have his glasses on. “Well they both begin with M”. Not a problem as we could easily link up with the correct route before reaching the village of Yanworth.

View from Yanworth towards Stowell

On the way into Yanworth a tractor driver (farmer) stopped and talked with us about the route, our progress and what was on the horizon. From where we were there was a distant view south towards the Marlborough Downs south of Swindon. “We’ve walked over there you know”, said P, “on the Ridgeway”.

Yanworth had the distinct look of an estate village. Later research by P c/o The Guardian, revealed that this was all part of the Vesty Estate. (Dewhurst – The Butcher that used to be on every British high street). Their (purchased) stately home was the nearby Stowell Park, which we could just see as we walked out of Yanworth. Allegedly the Vesty group and family were very skilled at reducing their tax bill to hardly anything despite making many millions when they were at their peak.

Valley of the Coln

Our path took us down to the young river Coln (another Thames tributary, the one that flows through Bibury) and we took a rest at Yanworth Mill before following the path through the wooded slopes of the valley to Chedworth Roman Villa. Half way along the track there was a delightful sunny field so we crossed the small river by a convenient bridge and had about 20 minutes relaxing, dozing, eating some home-made energy cake bars and chatting about families and plans for the next walk.

Sunny field near Chedworth RV

All good things come to an end so we moved on towards the site of the Villa. “Hang on, where is my wallet”, said a concerned N. He jogged back. “We’ll wait”. Ok, it was in a different pocket. Potential crisis over.

We reached the car at 15:30 and had a good drive back to our respective homes.

 A really lovely day in the Cotswolds, good weather, good walking, good company. The logistics worked well. Has to be “C” day, Carterton (again), Cotswold villages, cake bars and no cows! Distance today was a more respectable 8.2 miles.