Cross-Cotswold Pathway - Stage 6

Chedworth Roman Villa to North Cerney – Friday 25 November 2016

Three months have passed since we were at Chedworth RV in the summer. It’s been a busy time for some of us and combinations of work commitments, family duties and poor weather had reduced our options to walk. Getting back to where we left off last time involved quite a journey, train to Swindon, bus to Cirencester and then taxi to Chedworth Villa. By the time we started walking it was 11:50 therefore this short stage was really a afternoon stroll!

A Cotswold view near Chedworth

Oh joy here we are back at Swindon Bus Station. Something has changed though. The large, dark grey, building in the middle has been demolished letting a bit more sunshine fall upon the bus travelling public. The bus to Cirencester via Cricklade and many villages on the way was surprisingly busy. We eventually rocked-up in Cirencester and found a taxi in the market place. The taxi driver briefed us on progress of the market place road works, traffic problems on the road to Stow-on-the-Wold and then on his recent holiday in Hong Kong. (“Ten pound a pint, you know.”)

The weather looked promising, sunny but a cool wind from the north-east. The path took us up the hill away from the villa into the woods that surround the head of this secluded valley. We went under the line of a disused railway which seemed quite wide, not the normal single track rural line. Job for when we get back, find out what the line used to be.

Our research found that this was the line of the Midland and South Western Junction Railway (M&SWJR) from Andoversford on the Chipping Norton to Cheltenham line to Andover via Cricklade, Cirencester, Swindon and Marlborough. This line offered a link from the Midlands to Southampton. Just think what it would be like if it hadn't closed. The problems of the lack of capacity on the Didcot to Banbury and the Oxford bottle neck would be long-gone. (Sorry railway nerd stuff).

Chedworth church

Over the hill and down another valley into the village of Chedworth. We stopped outside the church to take a picture. Like many of these Cotswold villages it was all very quiet, the odd “white van” parked up undertaking domestic maintenance to wood burning stoves and Aga cookers in time for Christmas? The only person we saw was a lady slowly cycling along with an eclectic collection of items in her cycle basket. Where was she going? Was it a secret tryst or a lunchtime yoga-in-the-village session? Whoever she was seeing they obviously weren't in as about five minutes later she returned heading back the way she had come. There was an interesting looking pub in the village, “The Seven Tuns” but it was too early into our walk to stop so we carried on up a short hill and across the fields towards Rendcomb.

Near the site of RFC Rendcomb

It was about 1pm so we found a sunny sheltered spot by a hedgerow to have our respective lunch snacks. After the short stop and a time to chat and catch-up on three months worth of family news we set off towards the village of Rendcomb. Walking down a lane we were stopped by a motorist who was looking for the site of the World War I airfield RFC Rendcomb (Royal Flying Corps). We had seen mention of this in the book and T, who had a map handy sent the chap on his way. It was only later plotting the walk on Google Earth that T realised he had sent the chap the wrong way. He should have turned right at the end of the lane not left as misdirected!

Rendcomb village

Our path turned off the lane above the village to head through woods above the village of Rendcomb and its private school (college) with interesting European style buildings. We were now on the diversion to Cirencester following the Monarch's Way. Our later studies revealed that the Monarch's Way is supposed to be the 615 mile route taken by Charles II when he fled from the Battle of Worcester and made his way to the south coast to escape to France. It wasn't a direct route and his first departure point at Charmouth was a failure. T was sure there was a story about the wife of the ship's master hiding his britches so he couldn't sail the escaping Royal party to France – probably some sort of myth.

The path through the woods skirted a field of a strange tall yellow-orange crop that had us mystified. We guessed it was some sort of bio-fuel crop, probably Miscanthus (Elephant grass), but who knows. Bet it wasn't there when Charles II passed by!

Trees above Rendcomb

The shadows were getting longer and it was fairly clear we weren't going to get to Cirencester before dark. We therefore decided to make it to North Cerney have a drink and catch the Stagecoach 51 bus back to Swindon.

The Bathurst Arms pub in North Cerney looked inviting, we rated it 7 out of 10. Our sort of pub, no carpet to get muddy! It was warm, the beer was interesting (Otter Beer – quite bitter) and everyone seemed to be friendly. There was an adjacent hotel and as is usual in these places the pub did food. It was half-past two and the last of the lunchtime eaters were just leaving. After a drink, loo visit and warm up we went outside to wait for the bus. It was nearly 30 minutes late. The journey back to Swindon took an hour and a half. So plenty of time to plan the next leg and agree that we will start in Cirencester next time (early 2017?)Trains out of Swindon towards London were also delayed due to “vandalism” but the delay wasn't too bad. We said our farewells and headed to respective homes.

An afternoon ramble of 4.9 miles, more time spent travelling than walking but overall it was good to get out into the Cotswold countryside.  We were lucky with the weather and the walking wasn't too hard. Perhaps it has to be O-day, Old railway line, Old airfield, and “Oh dear, we didn't walk that far!”