Cross-Cotswold Pathway - Stage 5

Cold Ashton to Chedworth Roman Villa – Friday 26 August 2016

We always knew that this section of the pathway would present us with difficulties in getting to and from the beginning and end of the walk. The response we had from Pulham’s Coaches was hardly helpful. In simple terms they do not intend to stop anywhere except at the principal towns on their routes. They claim that other websites may suggest that their buses stop at intermediate stops but that is not their fault and they are making moves to correct this. They don’t appear to have done anything about this as so far and the unwary bus user is probably still left waiting for buses that zoom by.

Countryside between Cold Aston & Turkdean

As a consequence we decided to avoid this unhelpful company and drove to Chedworth Roman Villa (National Trust), (see https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chedworth-roman-villa) and then arranged for a taxi from Cirencester to take us to Cold Aston to start the walk. This all worked well, T drove from Reading, picked up P on the way and then they met N in Carterton, who had taken the S2 bus from Oxford. N had already found the pie shop by the time he reached the ASDA car park in Carterton as he greeted us - hot pasty in hand. So here we are in Carterton again, we thought we had made our last visit last year doing the Seven Shires Way!

Bangup Lane

We then drove to the said site of the Roman Villa (one of the best in the UK), parked the car and waited ten minutes for the taxi to turn-up. It did so – on time and we were whisked off to Cold Aston which seemed an awfully long way. (Well done P for arranging the taxi).

We set off walking at 10:45 and went wrong in the first field we soon realised our mistake and got back on the correct path which uses the Macmillan Way for much of the route. The weather was perfect for walking, not too hot, the occasional cloud but no risk of rain.

Turkdean cottage

The route took us past Bangup Barn over a Cotswold ridge and dry valley to the pretty village of Turkdean which had all the usual Cotswold style houses and cottages much sought after on TV programmes like “Escape to the Country”.

Turkdean church

Down another steep sided dry valley and then a slow climb up a lane to the A40 trunk road (links Oxford to Cheltenham). As we dawdled along we were overtaken by a purposeful, older walker, was he doing the Macmillan Way? We don’t know as he didn’t stop to talk. We passed him further on in Hampnett, were he was taking his sandwiches.

Big house, Hampnett

Hampnett was the next village, here again a lovely example of Cotswoldness. From the map it is clear that there are several springs here that are the source of the River Leach, an important consequent tributary of the River Thames. The village seemed to have big gaps between existing buildings and what appeared to be the relics of medieval house platforms (we don’t watch Time Team for nothing you know). Perhaps the village had been decimated in the Black Death?

Hampnett church

Seeing the speedy walker reminded us that it was lunchtime. “Let’s  just find a spot in the shade with a view”. Well after just over a mile we eventually stopped, not too bad, a wall to sit on, in the shade, but a bit smelly as the adjacent field had recently been spread with chicken muck. T checked the book and map and read the story about the “Hangman Stone”, only we weren’t there. We had followed the Monarch’s Way from Hampnett and not the Macmillan Way. All T’s fault, he didn’t have his glasses on. “Well they both begin with M”. Not a problem as we could easily link up with the correct route before reaching the village of Yanworth.

View from Yanworth towards Stowell

On the way into Yanworth a tractor driver (farmer) stopped and talked with us about the route, our progress and what was on the horizon. From where we were there was a distant view south towards the Marlborough Downs south of Swindon. “We’ve walked over there you know”, said P, “on the Ridgeway”.

Yanworth had the distinct look of an estate village. Later research by P c/o The Guardian, revealed that this was all part of the Vesty Estate. (Dewhurst – The Butcher that used to be on every British high street). Their (purchased) stately home was the nearby Stowell Park, which we could just see as we walked out of Yanworth. Allegedly the Vesty group and family were very skilled at reducing their tax bill to hardly anything despite making many millions when they were at their peak.

Valley of the Coln

Our path took us down to the young river Coln (another Thames tributary, the one that flows through Bibury) and we took a rest at Yanworth Mill before following the path through the wooded slopes of the valley to Chedworth Roman Villa. Half way along the track there was a delightful sunny field so we crossed the small river by a convenient bridge and had about 20 minutes relaxing, dozing, eating some home-made energy cake bars and chatting about families and plans for the next walk.

Sunny field near Chedworth RV

All good things come to an end so we moved on towards the site of the Villa. “Hang on, where is my wallet”, said a concerned N. He jogged back. “We’ll wait”. Ok, it was in a different pocket. Potential crisis over.

We reached the car at 15:30 and had a good drive back to our respective homes.

 A really lovely day in the Cotswolds, good weather, good walking, good company. The logistics worked well. Has to be “C” day, Carterton (again), Cotswold villages, cake bars and no cows! Distance today was a more respectable 8.2 miles.