Training walk – July 2017

Mortimer circular - 26 July 2017

It was T’s turn to plan a “training walk”.  (You would have thought we would know how to walk by now but it is quite easy to get out of the habit and the joints start to protest at anything more than five miles). We sought a walk that could be accessed easily by public transport, which is code for involving a train ride somewhere in the planning. Turning to “Rambling for Pleasure around Reading” again T found a combination of walks (rambles) around Mortimer.

St Mary's Church, Stratfield Mortimer

Our route would start at Mortimer station, (Grid Ref: SU6723 6411) which is really in Stratfield Mortimer and head northwards towards Burghfield Common and then working south again through Mortimer itself to return to the station, this was mostly one of the Berkshire Circular Routes as marked on the OS Explorer sheet 159.

The weather didn’t look too good and heavy rain was promised for early that Wednesday morning so we delayed the start and met each other on the platform at Reading. P’s train from Didcot was held up while they split the train and he only just made the stopper to Basingstoke. Hardly any time to catch his breath before we arrived in Mortimer as it is only seven minutes down the line.The rain held off (just about), though it looked like we might get drenched at any moment for most of the time we were out. It was probably cool for July but by the time we got walking it was muggy and humid. 

Lunchtime view

Our route took us across Tun Bridge on Foudry Brook and up a gentle slope towards Wheat’s farm (now a riding centre), SU6651 6484. So far so good, the route was surprisingly undulating and while the area could not be classed as hilly there was sufficient variation in elevation to make the views interesting. We stopped fairly soon to have our sandwiches, it was a late start so soon lunchtime. There was a view to the east of Wokefield Park and the gentle wooded hills near Spencers Wood. To the north we could make out the southern estates of Reading.

Pullen's Pond

The path carried on down to cross the Lockram Brook and then up to Wokefield Common. We crossed over a relatively busy road and passed Pullen’s Pond, (SU6586 6637). The booklet made this out to be a nice spot but it looked rather dismal suffering from close proximity to the sub-urban area of Burghfield Common. The path, now in woodland headed roughly westwards and we emerged to cross the busy road again by yet another pond (SU6522 6618) this one was equipped with a car park and cars.

Wokefield Common

The path wasn’t too obvious, but we made our way through Starvale Woods and came out at a small lane near Bridge’s Farm, SU6528 6543. On the climb up from the Lockram Brook again we curved eastwards and came out opposite a crescent of what were known as “Council houses”, now privately owned.  There were 14 houses and evidence of at least nine satellite TV receivers.

Anyhow we found what we thought was the path and headed across to Lukin’s Wood and came out on the wrong road, SU6576 6517. Never mind still unsure how we had made such a basic mistake we headed on southwards along a road and eventually came out near the Mortimer Cricket Club. We crossed the road near the Horse and Groom pub which from a distance didn’t look open and headed southwards again away from the main village of Mortimer.  We reached Drury Lane and followed the lane gently downhill parallel to the county boundary with Hampshire.  At the junction we opted to head back towards Stratfield Mortimer church.

Deer field

St Mary's church (again)

We saw a couple of deer in the wheat field as we approached the Foudry Brook and then turned towards the church. There was considerable evidence of historical water engineering and features, millponds mill races, SU6688 6410. (Somebody has been watching Time Team).

Back to the station and a short wait to catch the train back to Reading and departure home.

 

This was a surprisingly interesting walk in an area that neither of us knew. We manged 6.5 miles in three hours and didn’t get wet!

Mortimer station (looking towards Reading)

Cross-Cotswold Pathway: Stage 9

Tetbury  to Luckington – Monday 10 July 2017

Well here we are again trying to remember what happened on our last ramble along the Cross-Cotswold Pathway. It was a lovely day weather-wise though by the time we arrived in Tetbury the clods had built up and there was a risk of a shower. The usual GWR train to Kemble was unfortunately running late so it was going to be touch and go whether we would catch the bus to Tetbury. Dashed over the footbridge at Kemble and into the car park where thankfully the Pulham's Coaches bus turned up (luckily a bit late). We arrived in Tetbury and set off at roughly 11:30.

Can't see Highgrove

It was one of those awkward summer days, too hot and humid really for a jacket but always the threat of a shower. The path took the four of us south-west from the town along Longfurlong Lane. We were still on the Monarch's Way with the aim of rejoining the Macmillan Way near Westonbirt. The metalled lane soon became a grass track and then a footpath across meadows with grazing horses (polo ponies we suspect). The route skirts Highgrove House (country residence of the Prince of Wales), but we couldn't see the house itself as it was hidden behind trees and fences. The only evidence that we were anywhere near a royal house was the rather officious security notice found on a fence. We can't recall the various laws we would have broken if we had stepped across the fence but it was the only sign of Highgrove that we ever saw.

Pony family

As we approached Hollybush Clump we came across a field of young cattle displaying the normal inquisitiveness of young animals. They didn't give us any great problems and A demonstrated how a clap of the hands could stop the steers being too bold.

On the outskirts of Westonbirt (Grid Reference: ST8610 ) we rejoined the official route and walked along the northern boundary of Westonbirt Arboretum passing next to yet more polo ponies.

In Westonbirt Arboretum

It was time for lunch so we found a convenient sunny spot just inside the Arboretum (ST8459 9018). The clouds were starting to clear and the temperature and humidity was beginning to rise.  The path took us onto “The Broad Drive” that headed roughly south through the park. The trees were splendid. We passed several groups of visitors enjoying the trees and countryside walks. After just over one kilometre we left the park land and rejoined the footpath to Sherston, ST8437 8888.  We crossed the A433 and soon afterwards were passed by a lone walker who had been steadily catching us up since the Arboretum. She stopped for a while and chatted and explained that she had parked nearby and had taken a quick spin through the woodland before going to her allotment in Sherston. She headed off and by the time we reached the lane she was zooming off to attend the said allotment in the village.

Wheat - nearly ready for harvest

It was warming up as we crossed various fields towards Sherston. At one point we came across a couple of off-road cyclists, which resulted in various putterings about cyclists on footpaths. Still puttering we missed the footpath into the village and had to walk all of an extra 150m to the B4040.

Sherston welcome

It was 14:30ish, it was hot, we were tired and there was an open pub. So we called in and had a drink. The Carpenters Arms was pleasant enough and we sat in large comfy arm chairs in what some wag had labelled the “Man cave”. Beer was good but can only rate it 6 out of 10 on account of the labelling.

Refreshed we carried on through this large village with its adverts and bunting ready for a boules weekend – how very Wiltshire. The road dropped down to the small river Avon (the Bristol Avon) though this tributary is known as the Sherston Branch of the Avon. Across water meadows and up through a community nature park known as “The Grove”, ST8502 8544.  We joined a lane on the ridge which the wound its way down a gentle hill and via a ford to Luckington Court.

Avon water meadows, Sherston

We skirted the main village and headed up to the main road and found a suitable bench on the village green to call for a taxi to get us to Malmesbury. We met the taxi at the Old Royal Ship Inn (not open) and during our wait investigated the community shop round the back of the Inn known as the “Old Royal Shop and Moor” because it is moored up behind the Royal Ship! So we were told.

Wiltshire stile (style!)

After a wait of about 35 minutes the taxi whisked us back to Malmesbury. A very pleasant and friendly driver, as we arrived into the town the bus to Swindon was just leaving, our driver stopped by the bus and spoke to the driver through an open window and decided to whip us round to the next stop on the bus route. We got there just before the bus. Well done. Fifty minutes later having seen more of NW Wilshire and Royal Wotton Bassett we arrived at Swindon station for the train back home.

Extra (for the pony lovers)

Another day of good walking, we managed 9 miles again. We were very lucky with the transport. We are now out of the Thames catchment and have never been this far west! What single letter to use? H-day? Hot and Humid (at times), hidden Highgrove and a Helpful taxi driver.

Cross-Cotswold Pathway: Stage 8

Tunnel House Inn to Tetbury 

Friday 9 June 2017

The weather outside isn't so great today which makes this a good time to try and remember what we did on our last walk along the Cross-Cotswold Pathway. The usual meet up on the train at Didcot and then train to Kemble. P, N & A had managed to take advantage of ticket splits which had made a significant reduction in the cost of the return travel. T had wanted to return on a direct train so had to forego the ticket split.

Those in the know will realise that 9 June was the day after the general election. Here we were again discussing the results. Last year we walked on the day after the EU referendum and the year before that we were on the Seven Shires way after the election in June 2015. P remarked that our last foray into the Cotswolds was the day after the general election was announced and we had “book-ended” the campaign with another walk.

We arrived in Kemble on time and took a chance on finding a taxi on the east side of the station. That was lucky there was one so we jumped in and had an amusing, banter-filled  ride to the lane leading to the Tunnel Inn ( Grid Ref: SO9656 0061). It would be true to say that the taxi driver wasn't a native to the Cotswolds. Far from it, he revealed, after asking us to guess where he was from, that he was Gambian. It was just like being back in Africa in a taxi, something all us us were familiar with. Good start to the day and he gave us a discount (well he claimed he had done!)

Winter wheat (green)

Our route for the day was to depart from the published Cross-Cotswold Pathway and follow the Monarch's Way rather than switch to the Macmillan Way. Apologies to the purists but this meant we could get to Tetbury and access a bus back to Kemble. The original route would have left us in Gloucestershire countryside some distance from public transport.

Good walking weather, not too hot, dry and a bit of a breeze. A good day for green energy; sunshine and breeze. As we had departed from the “route” there was no book to refer to. We were on our own with just the map. After about half a mile we made our first mistake. Instead of going north and west of the small village of Tarlton, T took us to the east and south of the village. Never mind it wasn't a set back and we re-joined the Monarch's Way. It was a very quiet day, we met some horse riders in Tarlton (ST9616 9955) but didn't come across anybody else (certainly no walkers) until nearly into Tetbury.

Rodmarton church

Our route went across green hay fields and next to green fields of spring barley as we made good progress across the Gloucestershire countryside. A minor detour to avoid some young steers but otherwise no problems. The path kinked back to head through Rodmarton and as it was about 12:30 we found a “useful” bench outside the church of St Matthew at Rodmarton, ST9428 9802. Another of these quiet Cotswold villages, the occasional Volvo or 4X4 racing around the lanes but generally sleepy and apparently empty.

Dog roses

We left the village, past the Manor House and headed across more fields to cross the A433 and under the dismantled railway that used to connect Tetbury to Kemble. We were now on roads and out of the wind it was getting quite warm. Our route skirted the village (more of a hamlet) of Culkerton and onto another small village (it had a church) of Ashley. These were all places none of us knew.

The Monarch's Way headed south west across more fields with field boundaries full of wild flowers and dog roses. After about a mile we turned west by a small wood (Addy's Firs, ST9184 9325) and took an afternoon break on a convenient, recently felled tree trunk.

Spring barley (more green)

As you can imagine our conversations had been dominated by the general election result and what next for the country. However as we hadn't met up for several weeks we had also spent lots of time swapping news about family and friends and places some of us had been to, whether for work or recreation. Our discussion turned to opinions on how best to fly to India in response to the news that N's eldest was off to Rajasthan in the next few months.

Way through the nettles

We continued to head towards Tetbury and could see the church in the distance. As we approached the built up area the path headed off through brambles and nettles to pass behind a hotel, The Great Tythe Barn. A went and checked the place out and reported that there was a wedding reception in progress. The path descended past the “cottage” hospital, over a steep sided valley and up into the town of Tetbury. Yet more evidence of closed-down pubs but we found a place called the Snooty Fox (ST8908 9315) opposite the covered market in the centre of the town.

There was about an hour to wait for the bus so time for a couple of beers. The pub wasn't anything special but we could sit outside and watch the Friday afternoon traffic (white van men and school run 4x4s). The beer was good though the author can't remember what it was, therefore 6/10.

Covered market, Tetbury

Some concern that the Pulham’s bus to Kemble wouldn't turn up on time. They have history with us as regular readers will know. Anyhow no problem, the bus turned up early, set-off on time, arrived at Kemble on time and allowed us to catch the convenient 17:19 back to Swindon and Reading. As before T carried on directly to Reading and A, P & N changed at Swindon for the following train to Didcot.

Good walking, we managed 9 miles and though we were tired this distance is possible and bodes well for next time. Shall we summarise that day as G-day? Green Gloucestershire, Gambia and the General election!

Training walk – May 2017

Culham circular - 2 May 2017

P & T agreed to meet up to keep the limbs in some sort of working order. P suggested a walk around some local villages, known by name but never really seen; those places that are now by-passed and are only ever noted on the local sign posts. The weather looked promising, not too hot a typical spring day.

St Helen's church and wharf, Abingdon

We parked up at the car park near Culham Lock Grid Ref: SU5084 9493 and walked up through the village of Culham. This is a small village strung out along one central road and by-passed many years ago by the A415. There used to be two pubs, The Lion, a Morrell’s establishment, adjacent to what passed for the village green and the Wagon and Horses (Morland’s) up on the main road. Both closed some years ago. The Lion (SU5034 9504) is now a private house which suits the architecture as the building when it was a pub always looked rather incongruous as a dark brick rectangular edifice. We walked down beside the old pub and reached the River Thames, actually the navigation channel, “Culham Cut” and turned upstream to follow the Thames Path to Abingdon.

This was T's old stamping ground and he was able to recount stories of teenage fishing trips and school rambles along this part of the Thames. We passed several walkers going the other way, perhaps Thames Path walkers setting off from their overnight stay in Abingdon.  As we neared Abingdon there were more dog walkers and several off-peak boaters taking their morning walks before returning to their rented boats for coffee and a browse through the papers.

This is an excellent way to approach Abingdon with the church of St Helen's (SU4969 9677) and the old river wharf framing the view. Abingdon used to be where the Wilts and Berks canal joined the Thames. The canal, like many 18^th century navigations, never amounted to much and was finally put out of business by Brunel’s GWR railway that deliberately followed the canal for some of its route. Anyhow one remnant of the canal is the bridge over the River Ock that the canal company built to access their canal pound.

Wilts & Berks bridge

Up to Abingdon bridge, past the recently renovated (again) old county gaol, (or as famously referred to on BBC Radio Oxford “The Old Goal”) past the old County Police Station and into the market place dominated by the old County Hall. You have probably got the message that Abingdon used to be the county town of Berkshire but lost that accolade to Reading when the good burghers of Abingdon refused to have the new railway. Brunel had already started his HQ buildings at Steventon (half way between Bristol and London) and wanted to take his railway north through Abingdon to Oxford. Brunel was not deterred and built the junction at Didcot. Eventually the town folk of Abingdon realised their mistake and had a silly branch line built to Radley. That closed many years ago. Sorry for the potted history lesson.

Long Alley Almshouses, St Helen's, Abingdon

Coffee break by the Thames and then a look at the old Elizabethan Alms House near St Helen's  church and then followed a delightful path, “The Ock Valley River Walk”, along the course of the river Ock, crossed the old A34 (now B4017) and across the playing fields on the flood plain of the Ock and followed the path towards to the Tesco. 

The path then headed south from New Cut Mill (SU4795 96190 - line of the old canal again) and then due south towards Drayton. The path slowly climbed upto Sutton Wick and there were reasonable views of Abingdon and its 1970s housing estates.

Sutton Wick, Drayton, was quiet and neat with various farm barn conversions. The footpath cut through from this hamlet to the village proper. This was the old part of Drayton which is not on the normal rat-run. Our path took us round the allotments, past the back of St Peters church and eventually across the B4016. It was time for lunch so we stopped at a foot bridge over a strongly flowing stream, (SU4844 9398). The water looked a bit dodgy and later investigation showed that it was the effluent from the sewage works between Drayton and Milton.

After our brief stop we headed towards Sutton Courtenay along the Drayton East Way. This is a large village strung out between the newer part in the south and the ancient village around the church. Sutton Courtenay also used to boast several pubs and now most of them are closed and converted.

Following first publication of this post our walking colleague A added the following information about the church in Sutton Courtenay.

George Orwell is buried in the churchyard of All Saints' Church, Sutton Courtenay in a rather humble grave as Eric Arthur Blair. Apparently he had no connection with the village but wanted to be buried in an English village and his friend David Astor, the publisher (son of Lady Astor, thus linked to David Cameron!) arranged it. In addition to Eric Blair and David Astor the other notable person buried in the churchyard is the Prime Minister Herbert Henry Asquith.

We detoured around the recreation ground and the back lanes and eventually came out at the George and Dragon (one of the remaining pubs), SU50494227 . We seemed to be the only people there and despite being a lovely spring day there was a fire in the grate. A welcome drink, we were quite thirsty, and then off to complete the walk by walking round the weirs at Sutton Pools and past rather quaint cottages and smart homes backing onto this back water. We came out at the new hydro power station (SU5019 9437) though couldn't tell what sort it was as it was all secure behind blank walls and steel doors.

Sutton Courtenay - a backwater

Our path went across the flood plain and up to the Culham Cut again and then to Culham Lock to collect the car and return to P's for a welcome cuppa.

Well that was good, 9.1 miles in just over four hours. Really great to discover or rediscover these villages. Sorry about the local history lecture. We feel ready to tackle the next Cross-Cotswold.