Cross-Cotswold Pathway: Stage 7

Cirencester to Kemble Station – Friday 21 April 2017

If you are keeping note you will know that it is five months since we were last this way. Sorry about that. On the positive side, our group has increased by 25% with the A joining us at the beginning of the year. Our activities have been limited though by the usual work commitments, family duties, bouts of colds and other infections and poor weather. As reported in a recent post we have been trying to keep the joints flexed by our “training walks” with the result that we were confident that we could do this trip out to Cirencester to push on down the Cross-Cotswold Pathway.

We agreed in November that we would skip the North Cerney to Cirencester section and would start in the old Roman town of Corinivm. We joined the train at Didcot and we were speeding to Swindon when A pointed out that further down the deserted standard class carriage was Jeremy Corbyn (at the time of writing Leader of the Opposition and Leader of the Labour Party) and his team of two female advisors. No sooner had A mentioned this than the said C came up the carriage to go to the loo stopping to chat to us about where we were heading, how he had been taken around all the Roman sites when a child, etc, etc. C believed he had met A before but that might have been an ice breaker. We didn’t discuss politics nor did we seek a selfie but we were left with a good impression of a reasonable chap. As P said “he seemed like a bloke you might see down the allotments who you would lend your watering can to”. Like us C and his party got off at Swindon, us to catch the bus to Cirencester and him and his mobile-phoning assistants to be ferried off to a meeting in south Swindon.

Royal Agricultural University

That excitement over we caught the 10:20 bus to Cirencester and about an hour later set off walking from the centre of this town, Grid Ref: SP0244 0188. Cirencester was busy with market-day pedestrians including one chap who walked past us wearing jodhpurs presumably he had left his horse at the saloon. The route was a bit of a drag out along the traffic-noisy  A419 and then the A429 (Fosse Way). After about 25 minutes from town we were able to turn off and head through the grounds of the Royal Agricultural College (now University), (SP0046 0122) following the Monarch’s Way again. It was much quieter and we were able to catch up on the news and find out what N had been up to, work-wise in the Caribbean.

The weather wasn’t sunny, but not too cold, perfect for walking and we made good progress westwards, accompanied by spring bird-song and new lambs bleating, towards the line of the disused Thames and Severn Canal south of the village of Coates. Way back in 2011 we had walked along this same canal as it joined the upper Thames near Cricklade (Roman Way).

How did this get here?

We eventually joined the canal at SO9790 0004 and walked along the old tow path.

There has been much talk over the years of using the route of the canal as a way of transferring water from the relatively water rich Severn catchment into the Thames catchment with its higher water demand. The canal bed is in a pretty poor state with large trees, agricultural debris (see photo of old plough) and waste dumped into it with more than likely high seepage rates. It seems unlikely that the canal would be reinstated with that objective in mind, more likely the course could be the route of a pipeline (?)

It was the railway that did for the canal

At the GWR railway P & T were interested to see a South-West train using the line. Was this the Southampton to Cheltenham service? We will investigate the timetable when we get home.

18th Century Gothic round house

Shortly after the railway crossing of the canal we came across a “ruined 18^th century Gothick (sic) canal round house”, (SO9701 0011) the purpose of which we couldn’t ascertain. There was a nearby “useful” bench so it was time for our respective picnics.

Further on the canal has been restored and is water-filled up to the eastern portal of the canal tunnel. According to the nearby information board this tunnel under the Cotswolds to the valley of the River Frome and hence the Severn. When it was built it was the longest canal tunnel in Britain, and remains the fourth longest. In the winter, when there is sufficient water depth the local conservation society offers boat trips into the first section of the canal tunnel.

Eastern portal, Thames-Severn Canal

The adjacent Tunnel House Inn (SO9656 0061) beckoned so we went and sampled the Butcombe Ale, though A had Carlsberg. The pub was rather warm inside with a large log fire so we opted to sit outside. After a while we thought it was a bit chilly and therefore time to be heading off. We rated it 6/10 though P conceded that it had nice toilets.

Thames Path starts here

To make use of public transport we needed to divert to Kemble station and retraced our route for 1.5km and then turned south on the Wysis Way (a link between Monmouth and Kemble) to join the Thames Path, in fact to the beginning of the Thames Path, (184 miles to London etc).

The source of the Thames (ST9805 9952) is marked by a large granite stone bearing poorly decipherable writing (it doesn’t come out on the photo). T remarked that granite was hardly a local stone and this large lump of igneous rock certainly intruded into the landscape (this is a geological joke.) The spring was all dried up and looked more like the site of a camper’s barbecue. We wondered how the water could flow from there to create the water course as there was no discernible channel. We plodded on across the field to Thames Head where we could imagine a better defined channel.

Thames source

Across the pastures to just to the north of the village of Kemble and then we saw the train departing for Swindon, it was 16:05; T thought the train was at 16:25! Never mind. The next train was in about an hour so we found the imaginatively named “The Tavern” pub, (ST9846 9746). We swelled the customer count by 400% and surprised the landlady by asking for four teas. Actually it was a most welcome cuppa. The bar started to fill up and it became clear that this was a favourite “watering hole” for commuters. Arkle’s ales were on offer and because of the friendly nature we rated it 7/10.

Back to the station to fiddle about getting tickets to Swindon from the machine and then the HST, that was on time. T carried on directly to Reading and A, P & N changed at Swindon for the following train to Didcot.

We will need to plan the next stage carefully, should we stick to the recommended route and the Macmillan Way and end up near Stroud or be rebellious and keep on the Monarch’s Way to Tetbury? (The later would mean a Pulham’s bus and you know what we think of them!) 

Good walking, we managed 7.7 miles. Dry and not too hot, nor too cold “Goldilocks weather”. Good to be out in the Cotswold countryside again.  Perhaps it has to be C-day, Cotswolds, Cirencester, canal tunnel and Corbyn.

Training walks (various – Spring 2017)

Sulham Woods

It has been very quiet on the Walking Middle England blog since the end of November 2016. As the festive season was approaching and the short days were impacting on the viability of getting to and from the Cross-Cotswold pathway we decided to call off the long excursions until the spring of 2017. In the meantime we decided to meet up and undertake what we have termed “Training Walks” through the winter and early spring. These are summarised below with what memories and photographs we have, (sorry no photographs in Oxford).

Industrial Oxford – Friday 30 December 2016

 Post-Christmas is always an awkward time and it is great to get out to do something other than watch old films and repeats of TV shows. Somewhere on the internet we found a suggested walk around “Industrial Oxford” this tickled our collective curiosity as an antidote to the Oxford of “dreaming spires”. Therefore on a reasonable day in late December, T, N & P met up at Oxford Station. As it turned out P had to return to Didcot and joined us later. T & N carried on and headed to the site of the Old Electric Power Station in Arthur Street, Osney. (N used to live near here when he first moved to Oxford). The 32 page guide to the walk (!) describes in some detail how coal was brought up the river to the large brick building (still there) and how local kids used to dive into the water to collect lumps of coal for the home grates. The discharge of cooling water was warm enough to allow household laundry and bathing in the river. "The station was in action for 77 years, from 1892 to 1969". We can only imagine that smoke must have drifted all across Oxford when the plant was in operation.

Osney_Mill (Wikipedia)

The route then headed down river to Osney Lock which now sports a new hydro power station (reverse Archimedean Screw). Across the river was the site of Osney Mill which had been used for a variety of milling activities over the centuries including gunpowder milling during the civil war. (More info at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osney_Mill)

We walked on along the River Thames under the railway and under the old gas works bridge. Yes Oxford had a gas works on a large 17 acre site. Here again it must have really had a detrimental impact on the quality of the air in Oxford. Both the power station and the gas works were within one mile of Carfax (centre of Oxford) and upwind of the City.

View of Oxford, from the meadows near the gas works

Before crossing the river at the old gas pipe bridge we visited the site of another of N's old addresses in a road near where Oxford Town FC used to play. The gas pipe bridge links into the 1960s development of St Ebbes that replaced the old back-to-back terraces that clustered between the gas works and the University. Part of this site is now being redeveloped again as the Westgate Centre.

Up Littlegate Street, past the Modern Art gallery, the site of one of Oxford's four breweries in Oxford and into Queen Street. One can still see the relics of an old department store and the HQ of Halls Brewery (now Top Shop).

Rejoined by P so we decided to call it a day and head to our usual “headquarters” in Broad Street only to find that it was closed for the holidays. So a few steps down the road to the junction of Broad Street and Holywell and into the Kings Arms for lunch and a few drinks, not too bad but rather busy so we were glad to leave and wish each other a Happy New Year before heading home.

Not so far, just a gentle ramble around less fashionable Oxford, 2.6 miles. Agreed we would do the rest of the walk another day!

Besselsleigh to Kingston Bagpuize  (Route 66) – 27 January 2017

As we start 2017, the news is that A, another retired colleague, has joined our band. All four of us were going to attempt the long journey out to Cirencester but illness in 50% of the party meant a change of plan was necessary. A and T met up at Oxford station and caught a Wantage bus out to Besselsleigh (Greyhound), Grid Ref: SP4600 0176. The idea was to continue our own route to Faringdon from Thame via Oxford what we fondly call “Route 66”.

Appleton church

P, N & T had started the route from Oxford to Besselsleigh on 6 March 2015 and N & T continued to lay-down the route the other side of Oxford by walking Wheatley to Oxford on 18 March 2016. As you can see from the dates this is a winter activity!

Anyhow, the weather looked reasonable as we crossed the busy A420 and passed the Greyhound pub. We took the path towards Appleton and found plenty to talk about, catching up on global water-related matters and family news. The path came out at Appleton Church and we then walked through the village, past the Plough pub (T’s parents occasionally went to this pub back in the 1950s) and then turned north-west to head slowly downhill towards the River Thames. Before reaching the river the path turned westwards to parallel the river skirting an area known as Appleton Lower Common.

Kingston Bagpuize Millennium Park

At the junction of paths (SP4201 0091) we turned south-west and slowly climbed uphill towards Netherton and then onto Fyfield (SU4222 9872). This small village used to be on the A420 but is now by-passed though traffic is still very evident from the sound of heavy trucks travelling the  Swindon to Oxford route. After carefully crossing the said “A” road we walked into Kingston Bagpuize stopping for sandwiches at their millennium park (the name rather oversells this small nature reserve).

Tree trunk art

Finished the walk at the Hinds Head, had a quiet drink and then caught the #66 bus back to Oxford.

A pleasant winter walk, not too far, 5.9 miles and not too hilly, puts us in a good position to reach Faringdon next time (next year?)

Oxford again - Friday 3 March 2017

Would we manage to complete Route 66 to Faringdon today? No it was raining. All four of us were at Oxford Station again. What to do? We agreed that we would re do the Industrial Oxford walk again for the benefit of A and P and then reassess. This we did and followed the route as described on 30 December 2016.

Oxford gasworks  1960 to 2015 (Oxford Mail)

Coffee in the Ashmolean Museum and then out across the University parks to follow the route taken on 6 November 2015. This brought us back into Broad Street, so time for a fish and chip lunch at the White Horse (HQ) having clocked up 5.3 miles in total. A very pleasant lunch and drinks and we all departed several hours later in a mellow state.

One day we will venture out into the great outdoors, we promise!

Pangbourne – Wednesday 12 April 2017

Sulham woods bluebells

P&T undertook a short training walk starting and finishing at Pangbourne station (easily accessible from their respective homes) on 12 April. This walk was based on one of 25 walks described in “Rambling for Pleasure around Reading” published by The East Berkshire Ramblers' Association.

We started from Pangbourne station walked into town past the Aston Martin/ Bentley/ Lamborghini dealership and out of town on Moors lane to cross the water meadows in the Pang valley (except they were very dry.) It was a lovely sunny day, not too hot, ideal for walking. Loads of people around; walking dogs, going to the allotments or out for a walk as it was still school holidays.  We headed south-east, crossed a small stream and joined the quiet lane to Sulham.

Yet more bluebells

Turned off and headed up hill to go into Sulham Woods. Yet more dog walkers in the woods which were now starting to display bluebells before the leaves were fully out. There were a couple of tractors racing around harrowing recently ploughed fields. More walkers as we approached Little Heath (Tilehurst).

At SU6534 7489 we turned northwards to head towards Purley-on-Thames. Great views across the recently electrified GWR, Pangbourne towards Streatley and the Goring Gap. 

View towards Streatley

As we approached Purley the path went down Beech road and then crossed the main A329 to follow an unadopted road that crossed the main railway at SU 6580 7636. We walked to the north of the railway and then at the next bridge turned north towards Westbury Farm. Impressed by a chap on a mobility scooter successfully negotiating a steep slope up onto the lane.

Hidden Westbury Farm

There was a lot of activity around Westbury Farm. There were contactors building an expensive perimeter fence, large creosoted posts, multiple wire strands, rabbit fencing buried into the ground, interplanted with laurel. As we approached the farm the public footpath was hemmed in with large Cupressus leylandii (at least 10m high). Lots of signs and CCTV cameras. Somebody wants to stay private and hide the new pylons of the railway. The work continued all the way around the farm. We turned away from the railway at SU 6448 7661 and headed towards the river and ended up eating our sandwiches at exactly the same spot , SU6452 7715, that we had a lunch break when on the Seven Shires Way on 20 June 2014.

Boze Down, Alpaca farm

A short walk into Pangbourne and stopped at the George and had an excellent pint of West Berks “Good Old Boy”. Later conversations with Pangbourne residents indicated that the George wasn't the locals choice, however we found the chap behind the bar friendly and the beer good. The word in the town (village?) is that the Jordanian owner of Westbury farm is developing a stud for Polo ponies.

A really good walk, lovely weather and always good to discover new views and perspectives, a gentle 5.7 miles.

Cross-Cotswold Pathway - Stage 6

Chedworth Roman Villa to North Cerney – Friday 25 November 2016

Three months have passed since we were at Chedworth RV in the summer. It’s been a busy time for some of us and combinations of work commitments, family duties and poor weather had reduced our options to walk. Getting back to where we left off last time involved quite a journey, train to Swindon, bus to Cirencester and then taxi to Chedworth Villa. By the time we started walking it was 11:50 therefore this short stage was really a afternoon stroll!

A Cotswold view near Chedworth

Oh joy here we are back at Swindon Bus Station. Something has changed though. The large, dark grey, building in the middle has been demolished letting a bit more sunshine fall upon the bus travelling public. The bus to Cirencester via Cricklade and many villages on the way was surprisingly busy. We eventually rocked-up in Cirencester and found a taxi in the market place. The taxi driver briefed us on progress of the market place road works, traffic problems on the road to Stow-on-the-Wold and then on his recent holiday in Hong Kong. (“Ten pound a pint, you know.”)

The weather looked promising, sunny but a cool wind from the north-east. The path took us up the hill away from the villa into the woods that surround the head of this secluded valley. We went under the line of a disused railway which seemed quite wide, not the normal single track rural line. Job for when we get back, find out what the line used to be.

Our research found that this was the line of the Midland and South Western Junction Railway (M&SWJR) from Andoversford on the Chipping Norton to Cheltenham line to Andover via Cricklade, Cirencester, Swindon and Marlborough. This line offered a link from the Midlands to Southampton. Just think what it would be like if it hadn't closed. The problems of the lack of capacity on the Didcot to Banbury and the Oxford bottle neck would be long-gone. (Sorry railway nerd stuff).

Chedworth church

Over the hill and down another valley into the village of Chedworth. We stopped outside the church to take a picture. Like many of these Cotswold villages it was all very quiet, the odd “white van” parked up undertaking domestic maintenance to wood burning stoves and Aga cookers in time for Christmas? The only person we saw was a lady slowly cycling along with an eclectic collection of items in her cycle basket. Where was she going? Was it a secret tryst or a lunchtime yoga-in-the-village session? Whoever she was seeing they obviously weren't in as about five minutes later she returned heading back the way she had come. There was an interesting looking pub in the village, “The Seven Tuns” but it was too early into our walk to stop so we carried on up a short hill and across the fields towards Rendcomb.

Near the site of RFC Rendcomb

It was about 1pm so we found a sunny sheltered spot by a hedgerow to have our respective lunch snacks. After the short stop and a time to chat and catch-up on three months worth of family news we set off towards the village of Rendcomb. Walking down a lane we were stopped by a motorist who was looking for the site of the World War I airfield RFC Rendcomb (Royal Flying Corps). We had seen mention of this in the book and T, who had a map handy sent the chap on his way. It was only later plotting the walk on Google Earth that T realised he had sent the chap the wrong way. He should have turned right at the end of the lane not left as misdirected!

Rendcomb village

Our path turned off the lane above the village to head through woods above the village of Rendcomb and its private school (college) with interesting European style buildings. We were now on the diversion to Cirencester following the Monarch's Way. Our later studies revealed that the Monarch's Way is supposed to be the 615 mile route taken by Charles II when he fled from the Battle of Worcester and made his way to the south coast to escape to France. It wasn't a direct route and his first departure point at Charmouth was a failure. T was sure there was a story about the wife of the ship's master hiding his britches so he couldn't sail the escaping Royal party to France – probably some sort of myth.

The path through the woods skirted a field of a strange tall yellow-orange crop that had us mystified. We guessed it was some sort of bio-fuel crop, probably Miscanthus (Elephant grass), but who knows. Bet it wasn't there when Charles II passed by!

Trees above Rendcomb

The shadows were getting longer and it was fairly clear we weren't going to get to Cirencester before dark. We therefore decided to make it to North Cerney have a drink and catch the Stagecoach 51 bus back to Swindon.

The Bathurst Arms pub in North Cerney looked inviting, we rated it 7 out of 10. Our sort of pub, no carpet to get muddy! It was warm, the beer was interesting (Otter Beer – quite bitter) and everyone seemed to be friendly. There was an adjacent hotel and as is usual in these places the pub did food. It was half-past two and the last of the lunchtime eaters were just leaving. After a drink, loo visit and warm up we went outside to wait for the bus. It was nearly 30 minutes late. The journey back to Swindon took an hour and a half. So plenty of time to plan the next leg and agree that we will start in Cirencester next time (early 2017?)Trains out of Swindon towards London were also delayed due to “vandalism” but the delay wasn't too bad. We said our farewells and headed to respective homes.

An afternoon ramble of 4.9 miles, more time spent travelling than walking but overall it was good to get out into the Cotswold countryside.  We were lucky with the weather and the walking wasn't too hard. Perhaps it has to be O-day, Old railway line, Old airfield, and “Oh dear, we didn't walk that far!”

Training walks - late Summer 2016

A fine day on the Chiltern scarp

Well the weather has remained fine so with N still away on a Caribbean jaunt (sorry, business trip) we (P & T) continued our circular walks in South Oxfordshire. Here are a couple of walks for the album.

As on previous outings we used the description and route given in Oxfordshire Country Walks – South Chilterns and Thames by Mary Webb, Alan Spicer and Allister Smith for the Stoke Row walk.

 

 

Stoke Row – Friday 23 September 2016

Maharajah's Well

T met P in Sonning Common and headed to Stoke Row and parked in the Village Hall car park opposite the Maharajah’s Well (Grid reference SU6796 8407 ). More details about this OTT well can be found at http://www.stokerow.net/well1b.asp

After having a look at the well and taking pictures we headed away from the village into the beech woods towards Checkendon to join Judges Road in Ipsden Wood. In the Spring this is a great place for bluebells. It was really quite a warm day so the shade of the woods was welcome. Lucky for P it was also dry as he had forgotten his walking boots! His shoes were fairly stout and there were no complaints. About a week earlier there had been quite a cloud-burst and thunder storm and we were to see evidence all day of eroded pathways and gravel fans across the country lanes.

Woodland - near Berins Hill

The path crossed the Stoke Row to Checkendon road towards Scot’s Farm and headed through woods sporting some magnificent tall trees. The path was well marked, someone in the past has carefully waymarked the paths with strategically placed white arrows painted on robust tree trunks. We climbed up to Garson’s Lane, past the farm of the same name.

The woodland path was starting to descend the scarp slope of the Chilterns. The woodland stopped and we were treated to a great view at SU6505 8476 looking westwards towards Ipsden and Hailey (well known for the King William IV pub (known as the King Willy or Billy).

Towards Hailey

We dropped down to Warrens Chase and then headed back up hill by way of an ancient hollow way before turning northwards again to Wellplace Farm. Years ago there used to be a small zoo near here specialising in pheasants.

The track way then headed eastwards to slowly climb back up the Chiltern scarp slope towards Ipsden Heath.

Handsmooth

The view uphill is dominated by the new development at Handsmooth, (SU6569 8557). 

The Mail Online referred to this on 22 February 2016 as (quote) Rowan Atkinson's Oxfordshire mansion is finally taking shape after a decade-long planning row with neighbours. “Mr Bean” star has finally completed his dream home dubbed a 'space age petrol station' due to its unique exterior (unquote).

The views from the spot must be great and one can see why it was chosen. The structure has yet to blend into the Chiltern landscape and as we found on the following walk it is all too easy to see from a distance!

As we emerged onto the minor road in Ipsden Heath there was plenty of evidence in the form of erosion and sediment from the runoff from the recent torrential rain.

Hundridge (Waste) Farm

The path then followed a track past Hundridge Farm, south-east towards Cox’s lane and Stoke Row. The book makes no mention of the mess around Hundridge Farm (SU6687 8548), old skips full of waste that had obviously been there for many years but concentrates upon fairy circles!

This is supposed to be a registered waste transfer site with regular visits from compliance officers from South Oxfordshire. How anyone can justify storing many tens of skips full of old building waste in the countryside, next to a public footpath for many years is beyond us. An environmental disgrace and obviously financial madness.

The countryside finally improved as we neared Stoke Row. Time for some packed lunch and then back to the village and return home via a welcome cup of tea in Sonning Common. A walk of 5.5 miles (just as the book said).

Lovely woods and an unexpected view marred to some extent by a challenging house and the waste land of Hundridge farm.

Above Warrens Chase (SU6505 8476)

South Stoke – Friday 14 October 2016

It was obviously time for another walk in the South Oxfordshire countryside. T had woken early one morning having a nightmare about Logical Frameworks! It was P’s turn to plan, met up at his home and drove to South Stoke, (Grid reference SU5983 8363). We were joined by a guest walker, known by the name of Rascal (R is a small dog belonging to a friend of P’s.) We started late at 11:30 as P had a barbers appointment earlier in the day.

View from Watch Folly

The day started misty but it was dry. Definite feel of autumn in the air and the leaves on the trees were starting to turn colour. We started from the centre of the village (we were last here on the Ridgeway walk #7 in December 2009). Headed east under the railway, over the B4009 (Wallingford to Goring road) and out along the Woodcote Road stepping aside several times for the large tractors and trailers of an agricultural contractor harvesting maize. We then headed NE below White Hill. Rascal was able to come off the lead as we took a straight path towards Watch Folly. T noted that this marked footpath was not on his OS Explorer map 171. (Time to invest in a new map perhaps?) At the top of Watch Folly (SU6205 8457)  there is some shelter so this was an obvious place to stop and have a late lunch break and take in the nearly 360 degree view. We could clearly see Rowan Atkinson’s Handsmooth House (see walk on 23 September 2016).

Can still see Handsmooth

The plan was to continue in roughly the same direction towards Larkstoke and then back via North Stoke. Both of us were feeling weary so we opted to head west towards Little Stoke. As we crossed the B4009 again the contrast from open chalk land with big fields to the smaller hedged fields nearer the river Thames was very marked. The impact of underlying geology can make such a difference to the landscape and man-made scenery of the country. At Little Stoke it was a short step to the Thames (SU6016 8545 ) opposite Cholsey Ferry. We then walked back along the Thames, under the railway bridge and back to South Stoke retracing (in reverse the course of the Ridgeway walk we did in December 2009.) It was then a short drive back to P's house for the traditional cup of tea.

A pleasant, much needed walk even if it wasn't that far - 4.9 miles (but who’s counting). We need to plan the next Cotswold walk.