Wednesday 17 February 2021

The Roman Way - Part III

Third side: Silchester to Bicester (Alchester)

11.    Padworth Common to Bradfield – 23 March 2012, 9.17 miles (14.8km)

 

Another month had passed before we set off on stage 11. Bus from Reading and a walk of nearly 2km back to where we had left off in February. We carried on through the forested area which by now was showing signs of spring with primroses and deciduous trees coming into leaf. We eventually came to Ufton Court (SU6259 6674) an Elizabethan house. This is now an educational charity. T’s daughter went there on a residential school trip when they were “doing the Tudors” at primary school. We continued west to Old farm and were within 500m of the route we had followed on stage 10 on our way to Silchester. 

 

Oak tree, Ufton Green

The path then headed towards Ufton Green slowly descending towards the Kennet valley again. We crossed the river and then the K&A canal and walked over the Ufton Nervet level crossing, SU6167 6880. A major train crash happened here on 6 November 2004. Seven people were killed including the suicide victim who had parked his car on the crossing. Four more fatalities were to occur at the crossing before an over bridge to replace the level crossing was completed in 2016. We walked up to the busy A4 and heeding the advice in the book crossed the road carefully. This place also has a tragic story being where the murder of PC Andrew Harper occurred on 15 August 2019. We stopped in the Winning Hand pub at the road junction SU6137 6900, nothing special and surprisingly empty for a Friday lunchtime. Bit of a road trudge going uphill to Lambden’s farm and then downhill, along Webb’s Lane to cross a small stream that is The Bourne. The path then continued up to Bradfield Southend. The path dodged around rather nice houses (lots of money around here) and headed across fields of horses and small woods towards the valley of the Pang River. The path then took us into Bradfield which is a small village dominated by Bradfield School. There is an impressive sports centre used by Berkshire county-level sports of various persuasions and a Greek theatre! We were in good time so rested on a grass slope (SU6054 7263) in the afternoon sun before catching the bus back into Reading.

 

12.    Bradfield to Aston Tirrold – 13 April 2012, 11.5 miles (18.5km)

 

Bluebells, Ashampstead

Change of rendezvous point. This time the four of us met at Pangbourne Station and took a taxi to Bradfield. It was a pleasant spring day and we made good progress across the water meadows of the Pang River to pick up a well waymarked route heading north towards the M4. 

We were slowly climbing up the Berkshire Downs again but this time most of the route was in woodland, a mix of beech woods and conifer plantations quite a contrast to the open down land further west. 
 
We crossed over the M4 on a foot bridge and pushed onto Ashampstead. This appeared to be an attractive village, miles from anywhere. The guide book recommended having a look at St Clement’s church (SU5642 7680) with its wooden bell tower and what are claimed to be some of the most magnificent medieval wall paintings. We continued northwards past pretty cottages in Ashampstead Green and into the woods again.

 

 

St Clement's church, Ashhampstead

We emerged into an attractive dry valley (SU5604 7777) so stopped for a mid-morning snack to enjoy the view and “recharge our batteries”.

 

Beche Park- recharge time

After what seemed a long 2km through Burnett’s Copse and Parsonage Green we arrived in Aldworth and just had to call into the Bell Inn, SU5558 7965. We had been here before and P often takes guests there as a destination for long rambles from home. We sat in the garden and enjoyed good beer and a pleasant location, certainly rates 8-9 out of 10. The afternoon walk over more open country was familiar. On a historical note it is believed that the area north of Starveall (SU5457 8092) towards the Ridgeway was the battleground of Ashdown AD871 when the Saxons led by Ethelred defeated the Danes.

 

Chilterns from the Ridgeway
We crossed over the Ridgeway and passed below Lowbury Hill (more history here in the form of a Romano-British temple near the summit.) This area was familiar to us having been walked over on our Ridgeway Walk and we were to see it again when we did the Seven Shires Way. 

 

We had now reached the crest of the Berkshire Downs and it was a steady descent downhill past fields of pig enclosures above Chalk Hill Bottom to cross the A417 and into Aston Tirrold.

 

 

Chalk Hill Pigs
The route actually passed P’s house so we were welcomed in and had afternoon tea/coffee. This had been a long walk with plenty of contrasts, scenery and climbs. The rest and refreshments were much appreciated. P gave us a lift to Didcot station where N returned to Oxford and T&S returned to Reading.

 

 

 

 

13.    Aston Tirrold to Warborough – 4 May 2012, 9.41 miles (15.1km)


Transport arrangements were to meet up at Cholsey station where P met us and took us back to Aston Tirrold where we could start the walk and perversely walk back to Cholsey. Well we wanted to keep to the route as closely as possible. P knew the way (it was his patch after all). The route followed a good path past Lollingdon Farm. We met a group of ladies out for a walk heading towards the Astons. This was unusual as we don’t very often meet other walkers. Now that we now walk on Mondays we meet even fewer people. The path took us under the main GWR railway and then under the branch line to Wallingford, known locally as “The Bunk”. T’s brother M who was a train driver had been in the HST 125 that had been shunted onto the branch line to stage publicity shots for the HST service.


Agatha Cristie grave, Cholsey
The path goes uphill slightly to St Mary’s church, Cholsey and we detoured into the church yard to see Agatha Christie’s grave (SU5829 8700.) Adjacent to the church yard is Manor Farm with its Great Barn (SU5835 8717) which, according to the Guide book, was built in the 12th/13th centuries and was the largest in England. 

Our route then went over Cholsey Hill and down into the soggy area of the Mill Brook. It had been a very wet spring and the footpath towards Mackney was heavy with mud and difficult to follow. Mackney was, by all accounts, where Em & Ken (Emma Thompson and Kenneth Branagh), had their honeymoon. That’s a long time ago now. We were still in P territory so he suggested stopping at the Red Lion in Brightwell-cum-Sotwell. We were struck by the friendliness of this “Community” pub, not only could you get a drink but there was a Library, they sold local produce and it was a space for all sorts of local groups to gather and meet. Found our way through the back alleys of Brightwell and onto the course of a Roman Road over the Sinodun Hills to the east of Brightwell Barrow.

Just North of Brightwell



Further west are the landmark hills of Wittenham Clumps through that strictly refers to the trees on the top. Another name (according to the guide book is “Mother Dunch’s Buttocks”. We found a sheltered spot that was relatively dry and had our respective lunches but we can’t remember if it was with a view back the way we had come or over the River Thames to the north.
Shillingford Bridge
We dropped down towards the river and walked to Shillingford Bridge and crossed over the bridge to walk through Shillingford village (hamlet) and up to the A4074 in Warborough. We decided that as the Thames was out of bank it wouldn’t be possible to carry onto Dorchester-on-Thames. So we called it a day. N took the Thames Travel to Oxford and P, S and T caught the X39 bus from the other side of the road to Wallingford and Reading. 
 

 

 

 

14.    Dorchester to Oxford (Thornhill) – 1 June 2012, 11.6 miles (18.6km)

 

Met up at the bus stop on the Dorchester By-pass (A4074). Headed north through Berinsfield past Little Baldon (site of a fatal air crash of a RAF Handley Page Hastings on 6 July 1965 - all 41 people aboard, including six crew, perished in the crash, making it the third worst air crash in the United Kingdom at the time).
 
Crossed over the Shakespeare Way in the Baldons, last saw that in March 2010. T took a wrong turn so we ended up seeing the delightful church at Toot Baldon again. Planned to have a pub stop in Garsington but could not find the one and only pub that is now open the others have been closed. To avoid further fruitless detours we decided to press onto Horsepath across a field of fodder beans and under the dismantled railway line that used to connect Oxford to Thame.
 
The Chequers-Taste of India was open. Nothing special but it did have London Pride on tap. After a refreshing drink we climbed up Shotover easily and had a late packed lunch on the top of Shotover Hill (SP5638 0619) with a view of the BMW-Mini factory. Descended via "Narnia" (past C S Lewis’s house) skirted Risinghurst estate and walked to the Park & Ride at Thornhill for a bus ride into Oxford. Stopped off at White Horse in Broad Street (HQ) for a final pint before dispersing home. Forgot the camera sorry - no pictures.

 

15.    Oxford (Thornhill Park & Ride) to Alchester (Wendlebury Stables, near Bicester) – 29 June 2012, 11.5 miles, (15.5km)

 

The day started with drizzle but soon improved to a lovely sunny day with a good breeze, great for walking. Set off from Thornhill at 10:15 and went through the various Barton housing estates. N explained that trainers hanging from overhead wires indicated that drugs were available (is that true?)
 

Looking back towards Shotover


Path then headed north up a gentle slope towards Beckley. We stopped off at the Abingdon Arms in Beckley, last visited it in October 2008 while on the Oxfordshire Way. We rated it as 6/10. Interesting contrast from the outskirts of Barton and its post-war prefabs (now much altered) to Beckley that looks nearly Cotswold like. Great views from Beckley north and south (that’s why the TV transmitter is there). Managed to cross Otmoor following the Roman Road for much of the way. There was no firing on the range – well there were no red flags flying.

Otmoor - starting to get boggy

 

Boggy in places and T forgot to read about the advice in the book which said to divert around a particularly boggy stretch. At one point we were up to our knees in water. Fencott had the look of a Fenland village. Both the villages of Fencott and Merton were rather dismal and appeared to have no soul with no pubs or shops. Just commuter villages for Oxford and the M40 corridor. After crossing the noisy M40 came to a field of extremely inquisitive bullocks. Combined with T getting the wrong compass bearing we ended up spending too much time with our inquisitive bovine friends.
 
Some of the herd were emboldened to have a go at charging us which required quite a bit of shouting to move them to a distance we felt happy about. 

Friendly cattle?

 

Eventually found the footbridge over the River Ray and tracked through a field of forage beans to Merton. Past Wendlebury Stables and its fields of horses decked out in fly hoods.

 

Carried on across the Oxford to Bicester railway (at that stage still to be improved to take trains from Oxford to Marylebone) to our destination the site of the Roman Fort at Alchester (SP5724 2043).

River Ray near Merton

 

A note scrawled in the book claims that we finished at 16:30. Not a great ending if truth be told. It was quite warm and we were tired so we headed for the bus stop on the A41 and a Stagecoach S5 bus back to Oxford.

 

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