Cotswold Way - Stage 7

 Dursley to Ryeford – 7 October 2019

Dursley behind the Oak Tree

After an absence of 16 weeks we are back in the Cotswolds at Stroud Station. Unfortunately P had a stinking cold and had to pull out at the last moment so it was the crew who had walked Stage 6 who approached the taxi at Stroud, namely A, N & T. The taxi driver recognised us from June. (We obviously paid too much last time). The plan was to get to Dursley and walk back along the Cotswold Way towards Stroud/Stonehouse. As Dursley isn’t so far from Stroud we were hoping that the taxi fare would be reasonable, it wasn’t. The road was closed so we had to detour via the A38!

Cam Long Down

We arrived in Dursley next to the Old Spot Pub at 11:40. Last time we had remarked how different this part of the western Cotswolds was from the countryside we were more familiar with. The topography is hilly with wooded slopes and twisting valleys hiding a variety of hamlets and what were industrial buildings in the past. It is certainly attractive though perhaps less so when the weather is damp and grey. The forecast wasn’t too great and the rain clouds and wind looked set for the whole day. In fact it was starting to rain so after a bit of delay donning rain coats we set off through the small market town of Dursley to follow the Cotswold Way northwards.

North from Cam Long Down and ...

... looking the other way

Our route took us through the old town and out past a building with a blue plaque, the founding site of R A Lister (agricultural machinery, farm engines and pumps), Grid reference ST7588 9827. Further on we made a slight mistake in the route but got back on track to make the ascent of Cam Long Down, ST7717 9952. For those with a geographical interest this is an outlier (a detached part of the scarp slope). Quite a steep climb up to the top but we were rewarded with great views even if it was blowing a gale. The path followed the top of the “Down” and then we had a steep descent, losing all the height that we had gained, to Hodgecombe Farm, ST7826 9926. In view of the weather we decided to increase our weather proofing by donning water proof trousers and take advantage of the brief stop near the farm to have a lunchtime snack. A couple of pole-equipped walkers heading south decided to do the same. We wished them well for the steep climb ahead.

Limestone, Crawley Hill

Towards Crawley Hill

The problem with wet weather gear is that it isn’t that great when climbing a hill. It wasn’t too wet outside as we were under tree cover for much of the slog uphill but by the time we had tramped to the top of Crawley Hill (ST7867 9936) some of us were drenched in cold sweat.

A brief stop to get comfortable and then the path followed the edge of the scarp slope past several disused quarries. The path was mostly level but whenever we dropped down we knew we would have to climb back again. According to the excellent guide book we were skirting various historical sites, Uleybury Hill Fort, Hetty Pegler’s Tump, and Nympsfield Long Barrow.

Frocester Hill sign

In places we came out of the woods to great views such as at Frocester Hill (SO7931 0101). Not too sure why there was an Automobile Association (AA) sign up here. This seemed to date from the age of open-top motoring and goggles as there was a certain "class" about the sign. 

Here we could look back to see where we had come from. Oh dear is that as far as we have come, Dursley and Cam Long Down didn’t seem so far away. In the distance we could see the Tyndale monument that we last visited in June.

SW from Frocester Hill

We were getting tired and it was damp and cold. Autumn was well on its way. The leaves were beginning to turn colour and even though it wasn’t sunny the grey watery light picked out yellow, orange and red spots of leaves in the trees. The path was generally level now and we pushed on at a smart pace. A & N blamed T for the pace but really we were making up for the slow pace early on. Passed several dogs and their walkers, a sure sign that we were nearing habitation. Eventually we reached Pen Hill and a decision point (SO8135 0475) whether to cut down through Middleyard or carry on along an official Cotswold Way diversion. We decided upon the former and left the hill to descend past “Escape to the Country” cottages and through some horse paddocks with friendly ponies out onto a road in the village - just as a bus to Stroud sped past. Bother! We hadn’t actually been aiming for this bus but as the next one wasn’t for nearly an hour and the village didn’t seem to offer any sort of café or pub we agreed to press on to the A419 and Ryeford with the hope of finding a taxi or bus. This would help us next time as a better place to start the next stage, which would be quite near to Stonehouse station.

South from Coaley Peak

From Middleyard the Cotswold Way skirted the village of King’s Stanley by way of a field of quite docile cattle displaying an interesting mix of colours and breeds, and a ploughed field (great, just when we want to end the walk we are covered in mud!). Further on we were pleased to find sufficient wet grass to clean off most of the mud.

We passed the Stanley Mill, a disused textile mill that according to our guide book used to employ nearly 1000 people and arrived at the busy A419. A & N had spoken to a young chap as we passed the mill who confirmed that there was a bus route going through Ryeford. Therefore we crossed the A419,and over the Stroudwater Canal and headed up to the B4008.

helpful sign, Coaley Peak

We found the bus stop opposite the Wycliffe prep school, SO8135 0475. We only had to wait about ten minutes for the number 61 which took about 15 minutes into Stroud, in time for a quick drink and the scheduled (17:03) train back to Swindon, Didcot and Reading.  

Well we managed it. Not the best of days for walking and if it had been clearer the views would have been great. We walked 8.27 miles (13.3km) in a total of four and a half hours. Good to catch up on family news, summer holidays etc. Never had the chance to visit the Old Spot Inn in Dursley again! Can we manage another stage before the end of the year? Hopefully P can join us for that one.