Cotswold Way - Stage 7

 Dursley to Ryeford – 7 October 2019

Dursley behind the Oak Tree

After an absence of 16 weeks we are back in the Cotswolds at Stroud Station. Unfortunately P had a stinking cold and had to pull out at the last moment so it was the crew who had walked Stage 6 who approached the taxi at Stroud, namely A, N & T. The taxi driver recognised us from June. (We obviously paid too much last time). The plan was to get to Dursley and walk back along the Cotswold Way towards Stroud/Stonehouse. As Dursley isn’t so far from Stroud we were hoping that the taxi fare would be reasonable, it wasn’t. The road was closed so we had to detour via the A38!

Cam Long Down

We arrived in Dursley next to the Old Spot Pub at 11:40. Last time we had remarked how different this part of the western Cotswolds was from the countryside we were more familiar with. The topography is hilly with wooded slopes and twisting valleys hiding a variety of hamlets and what were industrial buildings in the past. It is certainly attractive though perhaps less so when the weather is damp and grey. The forecast wasn’t too great and the rain clouds and wind looked set for the whole day. In fact it was starting to rain so after a bit of delay donning rain coats we set off through the small market town of Dursley to follow the Cotswold Way northwards.

North from Cam Long Down and ...

... looking the other way

Our route took us through the old town and out past a building with a blue plaque, the founding site of R A Lister (agricultural machinery, farm engines and pumps), Grid reference ST7588 9827. Further on we made a slight mistake in the route but got back on track to make the ascent of Cam Long Down, ST7717 9952. For those with a geographical interest this is an outlier (a detached part of the scarp slope). Quite a steep climb up to the top but we were rewarded with great views even if it was blowing a gale. The path followed the top of the “Down” and then we had a steep descent, losing all the height that we had gained, to Hodgecombe Farm, ST7826 9926. In view of the weather we decided to increase our weather proofing by donning water proof trousers and take advantage of the brief stop near the farm to have a lunchtime snack. A couple of pole-equipped walkers heading south decided to do the same. We wished them well for the steep climb ahead.

Limestone, Crawley Hill

Towards Crawley Hill

The problem with wet weather gear is that it isn’t that great when climbing a hill. It wasn’t too wet outside as we were under tree cover for much of the slog uphill but by the time we had tramped to the top of Crawley Hill (ST7867 9936) some of us were drenched in cold sweat.

A brief stop to get comfortable and then the path followed the edge of the scarp slope past several disused quarries. The path was mostly level but whenever we dropped down we knew we would have to climb back again. According to the excellent guide book we were skirting various historical sites, Uleybury Hill Fort, Hetty Pegler’s Tump, and Nympsfield Long Barrow.

Frocester Hill sign

In places we came out of the woods to great views such as at Frocester Hill (SO7931 0101). Not too sure why there was an Automobile Association (AA) sign up here. This seemed to date from the age of open-top motoring and goggles as there was a certain "class" about the sign. 

Here we could look back to see where we had come from. Oh dear is that as far as we have come, Dursley and Cam Long Down didn’t seem so far away. In the distance we could see the Tyndale monument that we last visited in June.

SW from Frocester Hill

We were getting tired and it was damp and cold. Autumn was well on its way. The leaves were beginning to turn colour and even though it wasn’t sunny the grey watery light picked out yellow, orange and red spots of leaves in the trees. The path was generally level now and we pushed on at a smart pace. A & N blamed T for the pace but really we were making up for the slow pace early on. Passed several dogs and their walkers, a sure sign that we were nearing habitation. Eventually we reached Pen Hill and a decision point (SO8135 0475) whether to cut down through Middleyard or carry on along an official Cotswold Way diversion. We decided upon the former and left the hill to descend past “Escape to the Country” cottages and through some horse paddocks with friendly ponies out onto a road in the village - just as a bus to Stroud sped past. Bother! We hadn’t actually been aiming for this bus but as the next one wasn’t for nearly an hour and the village didn’t seem to offer any sort of café or pub we agreed to press on to the A419 and Ryeford with the hope of finding a taxi or bus. This would help us next time as a better place to start the next stage, which would be quite near to Stonehouse station.

South from Coaley Peak

From Middleyard the Cotswold Way skirted the village of King’s Stanley by way of a field of quite docile cattle displaying an interesting mix of colours and breeds, and a ploughed field (great, just when we want to end the walk we are covered in mud!). Further on we were pleased to find sufficient wet grass to clean off most of the mud.

We passed the Stanley Mill, a disused textile mill that according to our guide book used to employ nearly 1000 people and arrived at the busy A419. A & N had spoken to a young chap as we passed the mill who confirmed that there was a bus route going through Ryeford. Therefore we crossed the A419,and over the Stroudwater Canal and headed up to the B4008.

helpful sign, Coaley Peak

We found the bus stop opposite the Wycliffe prep school, SO8135 0475. We only had to wait about ten minutes for the number 61 which took about 15 minutes into Stroud, in time for a quick drink and the scheduled (17:03) train back to Swindon, Didcot and Reading.  

Well we managed it. Not the best of days for walking and if it had been clearer the views would have been great. We walked 8.27 miles (13.3km) in a total of four and a half hours. Good to catch up on family news, summer holidays etc. Never had the chance to visit the Old Spot Inn in Dursley again! Can we manage another stage before the end of the year? Hopefully P can join us for that one.

Training walk – 4 September 2019

Whittles Farm and Collins End – Monday 4 September 2019

Many apologies for the delay in reporting on this short “training walk”  that P & T completed while  A and N were otherwise occupied. P & T picked another ramble from the “Rambling for Pleasure around Reading” booklet. The walk offered the opportunity to catch up on news and to self-assess our fitness for longer more hilly routes in the Cotswolds, yet to come.

The chaps met at T's home and caught an X40 bus out to Cane End (Grid Reference SU6794 7944). It was warm and humid so we were pleased to be walking through woodland for most of the time. The bus stop was opposite where the Fox Inn used to be. After several years of being a Thai and then Indian restaurant the site has been bulldozed and is being developed for six executive homes on a site bounded by busy roads on three sides!

Nuney Wood

We headed away from the main A4074 through a kissing gate and across fields to the south of Cane End House. We are always amazed that it only takes five minutes to be away from a busy main road and deep into countryside and woodlands - this route was no exception. We soon entered Nuney Wood and followed a path through large beech trees to the hamlet of Nuney Green, SU6723 7911.

This is certainly “off the beaten track” one of the bungalows we passed was constructed of corrugated steel. Was this a summer pad or an all-year residence?

Cottage - Nuney Green

The path headed south towards Whittles farm (written in Italics on the map indicating some sort of historical pedigree). We crossed the Goring Heath lane and up past Whittles farm (SU6711 7832) which didn't look very historical.

Heading towards Mapledurham

At the top of the slope we had a great view across Mapledurham House (justifiably in italics), Tilehurst and out towards the North Hampshire Downs. The panorama at the end of this post doesn't do justice to the view. The path then dropped down the slope to join a bridleway near Bottom Farm.We had walked this path before on 25 April 2016, SU6711 7772.

We followed the path northwestwards into Bottom Wood pausing briefly to watch a couple of woodsmen clearing trees (mainly ash touched with Ash Die-Back). The path then headed upslope to come out at the hamlet of Collins End (SU 6611 7850). Some rather nice but isolated cottages. T knew of some people who lived in this area and had heard that while it may be only a few miles from Reading power cuts are common and being snowed in is a common occurence most winters so one just needs a 4X drive vehicle (or two!) 

Bottom Wood

The hill climbing was over and we headed along a path to the official beginning of the route (as published). This was the Old Post Office at Honeywood House (SU 6577 7917). We carried on along Deadman's Lane (great names around here) and then turned off to skirt past Haw Farm (SU6607 7929) through a field of docile cattle and into Holme Copse Wood. It was lunchtime so we found a convenient tree trunk and slope to have our “sarnies”. It was all fairly quiet, one or two dog walkers who had parked up on the nearby B4526 to give their pooches some exercise.

Large trees in Holme Copse

We carried on through the woods diverting from the published route to avoid walking on the A4074 and eventually returned to Nuney Green and then followed the path back to Cane End. That was the plan but distracted by sloe berries and the debate of whether these were sloes or damsons we missed the turning and had to detour back around a hexagonal shaped field to Cane End. We emerged opposite the building site (the builders were taking their lunch breaks in varoius cars and vans randomly parked on the verge). A short wait of about five minutes or so for a bus back into Caversham. 

Panorama towards Hampshire Downs

A pleasant walk taking advantage of the Chiltern woods to keep cool on a otherwise warm late summer's day. Rather a short distance 4.86 miles (7.8 km) but  both of us were tired and hadn't wanted to do much more. We agreed to do more and extend the distances before heading towards the Cotswolds again.