Wednesday 5 June 2019

Cotswold Way : Stage 5


Hawkesbury Upton to Wotton-under-Edge - Monday 20 May 2019


Our continuation of the Cotswold Way had been planned for some time and “set in stone”. Arrangements were to meet up on the “usual” train at Didcot and make our way to Yate. With regret N had to bow out at the last moment, in fact turning up at Oxford station to tell A that he couldn’t make it. Therefore it was just the three of us who made our way to Yate bus station (Grid Ref: ST7166 8239). Without going into personal detail we realised we all had some form of ailment that day. We were pleased to hear later on in the day that N was on the way to recovery.
Claypit Woods near Hawkesbury Upton
We had about 35 minutes to wait for the bus to Hawkesbury Upton so we popped across the road and had coffee /tea and pastel de nata in Esquires Coffee (ST7172 8243).  We eventually rolled up in HU at 12:20.
It was an excellent weather day for walking, sunny, cool wind and dry. We passed the Somerset monument (ST7723 8765) again and soon got into our stride.
Wild garlic
 Our route passed through attractive woodlands full of the perfume of wild garlic. Is it a perfume? Perhaps to some it is a stench or a smell. However you want to refer to it the scent is certainly distinctive and conjures up memories of wooded hillsides in the spring.
The route criss-crossed the Monarch’s Way as we passed one small hamlet after another. Most of these seemed to be based around the site of old water mills, e.g. Curtis Mill, Lower Kilcott; Kilcot Mill; Newmills Farm; Hillsley Mill, Alderley. Presumably founded on streams emerging from the foot of the Cotswold scarp.
Ponies near Alderley - what breed?
We passed several walkers and one party of ten walkers all heading south. We have seen more walkers on this route than on any other long distance walk. They all seemed cheerful.
We reached the hamlet of Alderley and were starting to get peckish it was 1:30pm. We agreed to carry on to find a view but regretted that decision when we started to climb up Wortley Hill by means of a sunken lane.
Plenty of wild flowers on display
The climb was fairly steep and our range of ailments meant we needed to take it slow. We eventually found a grassy bank near the summit and thankfully took a break for lunch and water, (ST7728 9229).
After the much needed rest we carried on through the mixed woodland, passing another walking group. The path took a sudden turn downslope, so steep that steps had been cut in the slope. We could see the Somerset monument, near where we started. Oh dear we don’t seem to have come very far. Further southwest we could make out the towers of both suspension bridges across the River Severn and perhaps a faint blue smudge of the Brecon Beacons (?) over to the West.
View to the Severn (can't see the bridges though)
We carried on, more walkers, more docile cattle (pleased about that). We then joined the lane towards Wotton (according to the map this is known as Blackquarries Hill). The road became steeper and then the Cotswold Way path descended an even steeper slope down through the woods to the hamlet of Coombe. On the way we disturbed a badger, which didn’t hang around. Unusual to see them out during the day. We reached the valley bottom and made our way into Wotton-under-Edge.

A short wait for the bus back to Yate station, which took about 40 minutes. We thought we had missed the train, but no, it was late so no particular wait in Yate, though we did miss the connection at Bristol Parkway!
Comparing notes afterwards we all seem to have got to our respective homes sometime after 7pm.
Looking at the timings we started at 12:20 and finished at 16:20; an afternoon ramble of four hours with a late lunch break. It was wonderful to be in the Cotswolds again though we all need to get fit for the next stage (17 June), which has two steep climbs! Great weather and lovely views. We measured the distance covered on this stage as 7.2 miles (11.6km).

Training walk – 10 May 2019


Wildflowers

Tinker’s Green and Hemdean Bottom - Friday 10 May 2019

While A was in France and N was at work, P & T were decided to do another circular “training walk”.  T dug out the “Rambling for Pleasure around Reading” booklet and proposed a walk to the north of Reading through (we quote) “the peaceful farmland and woodland typical of the southern Chilterns”. P’s friend Ln joined us with her walking poles that she swears by.


The weather looked promising, not too hot with possibly a shower or two. It was one of those days when you don’t know whether to wear a jacket or not. If you leave it off you get cold and wet and if you wear it you get too hot. Oh dear the trials of walking!


We headed from T’s house across the main A4074 to cross the Goring Heath Golf Course, across a small lane called Jacksons Lane and then down into a small valley and up to the woods of Noke End Shaw. P recognised the route as we had walked this a couple of years ago (25 April 2016 in fact). We were only about one mile from the built up area of Caversham Heights but were already in pleasant countryside with a view of the hills the other side of Pangbourne.
Trench Green




The path skirted the golf course and we headed roughly north towards Trench Green (a small hamlet). This was the first of three “Greens” that we were to visit. Bit confusing as they all begin with “T”, Trench Green, Tinker’s Green and Tokers Green. Spitting with rain, time to don the coats, in five minutes it was time to take the waterproofs off again! The walking was good, some undulations in the countryside but nothing too steep and the wild flowers were out in force. It had rained a few days earlier which had brightened everything up. We joined the lane that heads to Goring Heath and then turned off by the isolated Hodmore Farm Cottage. The path then turned across a hay meadow towards the next Green, Tinker’s Green.

Cottage, Tinker's Green
Yes it had rained the previous day as T’s trousers ended up being completely soaked through from the knees down. From this second green hamlet we headed towards Greendean Farm and crossed over the busy A4074 to the Packhorse Pub. It was lunchtime and time for a pub light lunch and a drink.  Very nice, thanks P. I think we can rate this 8 out of 10.


After a pleasant break of about an hour (possibly a bit more) and in the process avoiding another shower we upped sticks (literally) and headed East through Bardolph’s Wood. We were amazed at the height of some of the beech trees really impressive.

Trees in Bardolph's Wood
T had to admit that he had never been here in all the time he had lived in the area. The bluebells were over and starting to die back but other wild flowers were coming out to replace them.

 

We joined the lane between Kidmore End and Tokers Green and headed south into the third green hamlet. Much more built up than the others, modern infill developments, house/cottage improvements. After all this is commuter belt for Reading while still being in Oxfordshire!

Bluebells on the wane


We joined the waymarked “Chiltern Way” downhill past yet more “Escape to the Countryside” dwellings (but not too countryside) and then climbed up through a wild flower meadow to Tanner’s Lane.
Escaping to the country

Time for a breather, and some water. To the south was a view of Reading with recognisable buildings such as the Blade. We couldn’t place the large red building until later when we realised it was the recently reclad Thames Tower opposite Reading Station.

Flower meadow near Tokers Green

Followed a lane skirting yet another golf course, the well-established Reading Golf Club at Emmer Green, down to the bottom of Gravel Hill. Here we left the designated route and headed west along Gravel Hill lane to climb up to Caversham Heights again. We were now back in Reading. Gravel Hill used to be a short cut from the Woodcote Road (A4074) across to Emmer Green and Caversham Park. This rat-run has now been closed off for a few years and the tarmac surface has become covered in gravel and sand and encroaching vegetation.
Distant Reading

Using T’s local knowledge we cut through various footpaths among the suburban streets and got back in time for a welcome afternoon cuppa. As we often find, we were able to get a different perspective on the south Oxfordshire countryside. We were pleased Ln could join us. There might be some advantage to these walking poles after all!

A pleasant walk enjoying the best of a spring day. Unexpected views, good pub break and 5.75 miles (9.3km) without problems.  

The Oxford Green Belt Way – Spring 2019


When we left the Cotswold Way last November we agreed to continue walking locally, if we could. Some years ago T had discovered / bought a copy of the guide to a walk known as The Oxford Green Belt Way. When we met up at HQ (The White Horse) in Oxford for our end of year lunch we agreed to do this route  during the shorter day-light days. The guide is/was published by the Campaign to Protect Rural England, The Green Belt Way – A fifty mile walk created by the CPRE Oxfordshire around the Green Belt of Oxford, ISBN 978-0-9557723-0-6.  We have recorded the first four stages of the walk that total 28.5 miles (45.6km), 57% of the total as one post.

Stage 1: Thornhill to Nuneham Courtenay – Monday 14 January 2019

Catkins already on the trees
Another New Year and we assemble at Oxford Station to take a bus out to the Thornhill Park & Ride to the east of the city. Time to catch up on family news and what was new and so forth over Christmas and the New Year. Our aim was to head over Shotover Hill via Horspath and Garsington to Nuneham Courtenay. The weather was kind, sunny and really a pleasant day for mid-January. The route of the walk appeared to be well marked though that didn’t stop us heading off in the wrong direction to start with. Minor course correction made and we were back on track past the old Nielsen offices and up the northern slope of Shotover, a route much frequented by dog walkers. Up onto the broad top of Shotover and an opportunity to bore A with recollections of when we had been up there before (Roman Way – 1 June 2012 and Route 66 – 18 March 2016). We are going to be crossing many previous walks as we make our way around Oxford.
Not long after we deviated from the route again and took another path around Horspath Common and down into the village and past the Gurkha Kitchen (The Chequers) were we had a lunchtime drink nearly seven years ago.

The path towards Garsington was clear and we made good progress across the fields and up the gentle slope into the village. Garsington is a large village and once boasted many pubs and also Garsington Manor. The manor was home to Ottoline Morrell doyenne of the Bloomsbury group and also the venue for the annual Garsington Opera until 2010. Carefully following the route we came to a view point (Grid Reference: SP5809 0270) in the village that afforded a 360 degree view from Oxford round to the Chilterns and back again.
Look carefully - Snowdrops
We were getting hungry so eventually found a fallen tree just off the route where we could perch and have our respective packed lunches. Fed and watered we proceeded on towards Toot Baldon, past the Mole Inn (SP5670 0069) and then crossing the route of the Shakespeare Way just to the north of Marsh Baldon (last walked 12 March 2010).
Good progress along a splendid avenue of trees and then to the A4074 at Nuneham Coutenay. Here we split, A & N crossed the road to catch a bus into Oxford and P & T stayed to wait for a bus to Wallingford and Reading. No pictures as T forgot the camera! 

A good start to this walk and lucky with the weather. Many memories of past rambles recalled. Agreed we would try and continue in three weeks. We made it 7.8 miles (12.5km).
Bit of snow still around on 4 February

Ponies in Nuneham

Stage2:   Nuneham Courtenay to Abingdon - Monday 4 February 2019

Nuneham Church
The arrangements to meet up in Nuneham Coutenay seemed to work OK. A & N were waiting at the bus stop for P & T to arrive from the south. We picked up the path again next to the Cockadoo (ex Harcourt Arms) (SU5519 9935), known as a venue for tribute acts.

 The present day village was constructed in the late 18th Century because the old village was in the way of the expansion to Nuneham House commissioned by the Second Earl Harcourt. T believes that there is a portrait of the Earl in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford. Past the village church, also newly constructed for the villagers in the 19th Century and out past the House itself, now owned by the University of Oxford but occupied by The Global Retreat Centre (Brahma Kumaris World Spiritual University).

Nuneham House
It was rather a grey day with the threat of rain. The path headed south (roughly) and after passing through the New Covert woods eventually came out by the Culham Science Centre. The site was originally a WWII airfield and then taken over by the UKAEA for fusion research. This later became the Joint European Torus (JET).
JET Building, Culham

The basic layout of the runways and some of the old hangers and Nissan huts remain on the site. Our route followed the security fence, we on the outside but on the inside were various employees of the many organisations renting office space taking their lunchtime walks. They gave the impression of being prisoners on their daily exercise. Ironic really as the site was at one time slated to be developed as a prison.
A was familiar with the area as he used to live in the nearby village of Clifton Hampden. We crossed the railway at the old bridge of Thame Lane (SU5280 9606) and had our lunches leaning on the gate looking down into the railway cutting.

The path parallels the railway towards the River Thames for about one kilometre. On reaching the river we turned west to head towards Abingdon passing over the Swift Dich and the site of old flash locks (SU5136 9663). The Swift Ditch was the original course of the Thames but the main channel was diverted in the middle ages towards Abingdon by the Abbey to provide water for the mill and the Abbey itself. We crossed over the river at Abingdon Lock continued into Abingdon and arrived in the Abbey Gardens (SU4995 9710). The Abbey ruins here were carefully erected and landscaped in the Victorian era.
County Hall, Abingdon

We had about an hour before the bus, time to find a pub. Abingdon was T’s teenage home so he suggested the Broad Face (SU4988 9698). It was quiet, well it was a Monday afternoon, beer was good and we agreed that this could certainly rank 7 out of 10. After our short break we headed to Stratton Way to catch respective buses. A & N were heading back to Oxford so plenty of buses. P & T decided to go back to Wallingford via Didcot only to learn that the bus was delayed / cancelled. Change of plan they also headed back to Oxford and changed buses at Redbridge Park & Ride to catch the X39/40 to Wallingford and Reading. Not really impressed as it took T over two hours to get home. However the use of the Redbridge P&R proved useful in the next two stages.
Not such a great day weather wise but we stayed dry even if we ended up a bit muddy. Countryside pleasant enough. This stage was 6.8 miles (10.9km)

Stage 3: Abingdon to Lodge Hill – Monday 4 March 2019

P was unable to join us on this stage though he did complete it a few weeks later with his family friend Ln (see 10 May 2019 when she joined us for a training walk). The plan was to meet in Abingdon Market Place. T got there via the Redbridge Park & Ride and was waiting for A & N to arrive on the next bus. It was market day so there was an opportunity to get a coffee before we set off

The three of us then retraced the path through the Abbey Meadows to just before Abingdon Lock. The route of the OGBW then crosses the mill stream and follows the right bank of the Thames all the way to Radley. It had rained a few days earlier and the path was quite muddy in places especially the Abingdon side of the railway. Not many people about except a walker equipped with two walking poles who appeared to have set off from Oxford. As he passed us he asked wearily how much further Abingdon was. He was probably suffering from boredom and mud. We have found that the Thames path isn’t the most scenic and can be a bit boring.

House by the river
We three pressed on past an interesting house by the river and then with a view across the river to the front prospect of Nuneham House. We eventually reached Radley College Boat House (SU 5387 9881) and turned westwards, away from the river, to pass through Lower Radley. 
Radley College Boat House

T used to have a gardening job in a cottage in Lower Radley when he was a teenager.

It started to rain so we took shelter in the convenient Bowyer Arms, near the railway station, SU5254 988. We only had a drink, it was lunchtime after all. When P & Ln did this stage a few weeks later they ordered food as well but were not impressed as their simple order was lost and not delivered until a complaint was made. We can only rate the Bowyer Arms 5/10.
Nuneham House - again

Refreshed and rested we walked on through the village to go through the grounds of Radley College. We guess this is one of the leading schools in the country and it was fairly clear that the facilities are something special. Apparently fees are in the order of many thousands of pounds per term. Sport seems high on the agenda. Those who take an interest in rowing will have often heard that crew members of the University Boat Race have been to “Radley”. Those chaps were “wet bods”, “dry bods” were those who preferred cricket.
Tree in Radley Park
As we climbed gently up from Radley we found a spot in an avenue of trees to have our late lunches and then admire the improving view across Abingdon towards the Berkshire Downs. Our route for the day ended at Lodge Hill (SU5064 9989) on the A4183 where we were able to get a bus back to Redbridge and Oxford.
Pleasant walk, bit slow in the mud along the tow path, more interesting after Radley. Only 6.2 miles (9.9km).

Stage 4: Lodge Hill to Cumnor – Monday 1 April 2019


Sunningwell Church
Another walk with just three of the band of four. This time N wasn’t able to join us. T and P used the Park & Ride again and arrived at Lodge Hill first. A was on the next bus. In his haste to leave home T had forgotten to put his boots in the car so undertook the walk in a pair of old shoes which luckily were fairly robust. Our route for the day was to head through Sunningwell, over Boars Hill to Cumnor.
Flowing Spring, Sunningwell

We were lucky with the weather again, a fine sunny day. The first half-hour or so we exchanged news about friends and families and soon reached Sunningwell, home to the Flowing Well pub where T has his first legal pint of beer!

Keep the walkers in
The path then headed up to Boars Hill. The path had recently been fenced in across the paddock. This was a substantial fence was it to keep animals in or walkers out? We felt it was the latter.

View South with fence!
Good view of the Downs from the top of the hill. The path then followed one of the premier addresses in Boars Hill, Lincombe Lane. Large secluded houses hiding behind big hedges and electric gates. In one or two places we could glimpse well-tended gardens, smart conservatories, and state of the art front doors. The path turned off Lincombe Lane and squeezed between tall hedges to emerge on Foxcombe Road near the Fox Inn. A and family had recently dined there (can't remember what he thought about it).
Skirting Boars Hill woods

The path cut below the woods staying on the contour before heading up to Old Boars Hill and passing Jarn Mound, an artificial mound constructed in the 1930sto give a view across Oxford. The view has long gone due to overgrown trees. Boars Hill has always been a place of spacious houses. It was within 5 miles of Carfax in the centre of Oxford meaning that University academics could live there but enjoy clean air, space and views. Oxford in the 19th century was probably fairly polluted from the coal burning power station and town gas works right in the town.
Distant Dreaming Spires of Oxford

We made a slight detour to see where T’s grandparents used to live in the same road that goes to Youlbury Scout Camp and then pushed on downhill to get a view of the Dreaming Spires of Oxford (Matthew Arnold’s poem the “Scholar Gypsy”.

It was getting hot in the sun as we descended the slope towards Chilswell farm so our thoughts turned to where to have our snacks. We agreed to walk on to take a detour to Cumnor Hurst Hill, SP4778 0441 and found a shady spot to sit and have lunch.
Woods, Cumnor Hurst

As our readers know we have a rule, “what is said on the walk stays on the walk.” Needless to say the topic of the moment, the B issue, was the subject of some of our musings particularly as the deadline of 29 March had been and gone.
We were close to where A lived but we had to backtrack through to Henwood Farm” (last walked 6 March 2015 on Route 66.) It was then an easy 1km north-westwards to Cumnor. A short wait and then a bus back into Oxford. A got off Elms Parade, Botley and T&P carried on to Oxford and switched buses out to the Redbridge P&R. Before catching the bus in Oxford T&P popped into the Royal Blenheim in Pembroke Street for a swift half. We had been here before and can rate this certainly 6/10 possibly 7/10. 

Another good ramble with considerable variation in scenery and views, on Goggle earth we made it 7.75 miles (12.4km). Pity N wasn’t with us perhaps we will be up to full strength when we continue the Cotswold Way next month.