Cotswold Way - Stage 8

Stonehouse Station to Painswick – 11 November 2019

Panorama of Stroud

Apologies, your reporter had planned to publish this post in November in anticipation of another walk before the end of the year / decade. As it turned out we were defeated by the wet weather and family activities. Before we realised it December was upon us and the build up to Christmas had begun. We (all four of us) celebrated the season and another year of walking by meeting up at HQ (The White Horse, Broad Street, Oxford) on 16 December for lunch and drinks after a relaxing stroll around the Oxford University Parks. Very pleasant despite the recent general election. We, of course, touched on the result and the likely future for the country but to keep true to our principles we will refrain from talking politics in this blog.

Right then back to the report of our most recent walk which, as it turns out, was the last walk of the year. Was this the last walk of the decade? Never too sure when the decade ends, at the end of the 09 year or the 00 year? Come on get back to the Cotswolds.

P was still not fit therefore it was A, N & T who got off the train at Stonehouse station (Grid Reference SO8082 0524) on a sunny but breezy morning. We had decided that Stonehouse was nearer to the end of the last walk than Stroud and within 20 minutes we were back on the Cotswold Way.

Doverow vineyard

Irrigation potential

Our path took us up past the Doverow Vineyard (part of Woodchester Valley Wines), SO8158 0502) professional interests were discussed as we examined the drip irrigation kit along the rows of vines.

The path continued to slowly climb up onto the scarp front of the Cotswolds with a panorama across Stroud and Nailsworth. Luckily there wasn’t too much mud even though it had been raining on and off for weeks.

We emerged onto the ridge and had a view out to the west across the Severn Valley towards the Forest of Dean though the middle ground was dominated by the SKF factory and other industrial units in Stonehouse.

Industrial stonehouse

After passing through a field of relatively docile cattle we entered woodland (Standish Woods) and stayed on this woodland path for some distance coming across various dog walkers on the way. We found a bench in the woods with some sort of view so we stopped for a quick packed lunch – quick because there was a rain shower.

Celtic lands in the west

After about 2km we came out at the National Trust carpark for Haresfield Hill. Here the path takes a detour of about 2km to Haresfield Beacon. Well we decided that as daylight was precious, more rain was likely and we had seen the view into Wales before we would give the Haresfield detour a miss. We turned eastwards and followed a lane to join the Cotswold way at the foot of Scottsquar Hill Unfortunately we took a wrong turning and very shortly ended up at the top of a cliff above our desired route. We backtracked up hill and after a bit of wandering around in the woods detected a path that took us safely down to the Cotswold way. Always dangerous to lose elevation as not long after the path climbed back up the hill to cross an area of disused quarries to the south of the village of Edge! We came out opposite the Edgemoor Inn on the A4173.

Washbrook

We didn’t stop but carried on downhill towards Jenkin’s Farm. The path left the lane and proceeded across wet meadows and scrub land towards Washbrook Farm (Mill), (SO8569 0951). On the way we passed a stone monument telling us that Chipping Campden was 47 miles away and that Bath was 55 miles behind us. Good news - we are more than half way. Why build a monument in this rather unremarkable field? Would something to mark half way at say 51.5 miles have been more appropriate? There is no clue in the Guide Book.

Washbrook Farm / Mill had been attractively restored and part of the buildings turned into a holiday let. The path headed uphill again past tennis courts and below a large house renovation in the “Grand Designs” style.

Sign of the times?

Somebody's "Grand Design"

Across another field on the outskirts of Painswick past a rather ornamental wrought iron sign post (SO8635 0972) and then down a lane into Painswick.

This attractive village is on the main A46 and we were pretty certain there would be a bus back to Stroud.

We stopped to take pictures of the lynch gate to St Mary’s Church, found the bus stop and realised that we had 40 minutes or so to have a refreshing drink in the Falcon Inn (7/10). It was warm and welcoming and we had plenty of time to warm up and relax with some interesting beers on offer.

St Mary's lynch gate

The 66 bus back to Stroud was on time and before we knew it we had arrived in the town. We have yet to discover the more scenic route to get from the bus stop to the station. Our tried and tested way involves dodging through the multi-storey car park of the adjacent shopping centre. This surely can’t be the most desirable route? We checked at the station and were in time for a slightly earlier train and we even had time for another drink. This time we found the Imperial Hotel in Stroud (7/10) near the station and a great improvement over the Weatherspoon pub with its sticky tables and carpets that we had been in before. It was warm and comfortable and mainly full of elderly patrons playing backgammon, cards and bridge. We found a comfortable spot on some leather seats and enjoyed the 15 minute wait before strolling across to the station.

St Mary's church Painswick

 The train was much smaller than usual and crowded with school pupils from the various Stroud secondary schools returning to Swindon, mainly. A few got off at Kemble. Obviously the noise levels were high and the train was full. It got us thinking about the education policy and costs involved. Stroud in in Gloucestershire and Swindon is a unitary authority 25 miles away.

At Swindon it was a short wait to change trains and back to Didcot and Reading by a reasonable time. 

 Yes we know we only did 6.3 miles (10.1km) but it is late autumn and the days are short. Not a bad day for walking we managed without too much mud or getting rain-soaked.

That is all for 2019. Look forward to returning to Painswick in the spring especially as we are now more than halfway.

Cotswold Way - Stage 7

 Dursley to Ryeford – 7 October 2019

Dursley behind the Oak Tree

After an absence of 16 weeks we are back in the Cotswolds at Stroud Station. Unfortunately P had a stinking cold and had to pull out at the last moment so it was the crew who had walked Stage 6 who approached the taxi at Stroud, namely A, N & T. The taxi driver recognised us from June. (We obviously paid too much last time). The plan was to get to Dursley and walk back along the Cotswold Way towards Stroud/Stonehouse. As Dursley isn’t so far from Stroud we were hoping that the taxi fare would be reasonable, it wasn’t. The road was closed so we had to detour via the A38!

Cam Long Down

We arrived in Dursley next to the Old Spot Pub at 11:40. Last time we had remarked how different this part of the western Cotswolds was from the countryside we were more familiar with. The topography is hilly with wooded slopes and twisting valleys hiding a variety of hamlets and what were industrial buildings in the past. It is certainly attractive though perhaps less so when the weather is damp and grey. The forecast wasn’t too great and the rain clouds and wind looked set for the whole day. In fact it was starting to rain so after a bit of delay donning rain coats we set off through the small market town of Dursley to follow the Cotswold Way northwards.

North from Cam Long Down and ...

... looking the other way

Our route took us through the old town and out past a building with a blue plaque, the founding site of R A Lister (agricultural machinery, farm engines and pumps), Grid reference ST7588 9827. Further on we made a slight mistake in the route but got back on track to make the ascent of Cam Long Down, ST7717 9952. For those with a geographical interest this is an outlier (a detached part of the scarp slope). Quite a steep climb up to the top but we were rewarded with great views even if it was blowing a gale. The path followed the top of the “Down” and then we had a steep descent, losing all the height that we had gained, to Hodgecombe Farm, ST7826 9926. In view of the weather we decided to increase our weather proofing by donning water proof trousers and take advantage of the brief stop near the farm to have a lunchtime snack. A couple of pole-equipped walkers heading south decided to do the same. We wished them well for the steep climb ahead.

Limestone, Crawley Hill

Towards Crawley Hill

The problem with wet weather gear is that it isn’t that great when climbing a hill. It wasn’t too wet outside as we were under tree cover for much of the slog uphill but by the time we had tramped to the top of Crawley Hill (ST7867 9936) some of us were drenched in cold sweat.

A brief stop to get comfortable and then the path followed the edge of the scarp slope past several disused quarries. The path was mostly level but whenever we dropped down we knew we would have to climb back again. According to the excellent guide book we were skirting various historical sites, Uleybury Hill Fort, Hetty Pegler’s Tump, and Nympsfield Long Barrow.

Frocester Hill sign

In places we came out of the woods to great views such as at Frocester Hill (SO7931 0101). Not too sure why there was an Automobile Association (AA) sign up here. This seemed to date from the age of open-top motoring and goggles as there was a certain "class" about the sign. 

Here we could look back to see where we had come from. Oh dear is that as far as we have come, Dursley and Cam Long Down didn’t seem so far away. In the distance we could see the Tyndale monument that we last visited in June.

SW from Frocester Hill

We were getting tired and it was damp and cold. Autumn was well on its way. The leaves were beginning to turn colour and even though it wasn’t sunny the grey watery light picked out yellow, orange and red spots of leaves in the trees. The path was generally level now and we pushed on at a smart pace. A & N blamed T for the pace but really we were making up for the slow pace early on. Passed several dogs and their walkers, a sure sign that we were nearing habitation. Eventually we reached Pen Hill and a decision point (SO8135 0475) whether to cut down through Middleyard or carry on along an official Cotswold Way diversion. We decided upon the former and left the hill to descend past “Escape to the Country” cottages and through some horse paddocks with friendly ponies out onto a road in the village - just as a bus to Stroud sped past. Bother! We hadn’t actually been aiming for this bus but as the next one wasn’t for nearly an hour and the village didn’t seem to offer any sort of café or pub we agreed to press on to the A419 and Ryeford with the hope of finding a taxi or bus. This would help us next time as a better place to start the next stage, which would be quite near to Stonehouse station.

South from Coaley Peak

From Middleyard the Cotswold Way skirted the village of King’s Stanley by way of a field of quite docile cattle displaying an interesting mix of colours and breeds, and a ploughed field (great, just when we want to end the walk we are covered in mud!). Further on we were pleased to find sufficient wet grass to clean off most of the mud.

We passed the Stanley Mill, a disused textile mill that according to our guide book used to employ nearly 1000 people and arrived at the busy A419. A & N had spoken to a young chap as we passed the mill who confirmed that there was a bus route going through Ryeford. Therefore we crossed the A419,and over the Stroudwater Canal and headed up to the B4008.

helpful sign, Coaley Peak

We found the bus stop opposite the Wycliffe prep school, SO8135 0475. We only had to wait about ten minutes for the number 61 which took about 15 minutes into Stroud, in time for a quick drink and the scheduled (17:03) train back to Swindon, Didcot and Reading.  

Well we managed it. Not the best of days for walking and if it had been clearer the views would have been great. We walked 8.27 miles (13.3km) in a total of four and a half hours. Good to catch up on family news, summer holidays etc. Never had the chance to visit the Old Spot Inn in Dursley again! Can we manage another stage before the end of the year? Hopefully P can join us for that one.