The Seven Shires Way - Stage 21

Coleshill to Little Faringdon - Friday 31 October 2014

This was one of those rare days when we couldn’t use public transport very easily. The shortening hours and paucity of good bus connections meant that T&P drove from home and rendezvoused with N at  T’s Mum’s house. Everything went to plan and we then got a lift, courtesy of T’s Mum, to Coleshill for a 10am departure from Church Lane (Grid Ref: SU2357 9376).  The weather was just right for a walk - dry, sunny and mild. In fact later that day it was confirmed to be the mildest Halloween day on record. 

Leaving Coleshill

We headed north from Coleshill, with the sun warming our backs, across fields and then onto a minor road towards Buscot. Distant guns of a shoot, presumably in Buscot Park, and dodging onto the verge to avoid fast cars and the bus that we would catch later than day (pause for hollow laughter – you will see why) were the only interruptions to a pleasant stroll.

Leaves have fallen

The path turned towards  Broadleaze Farm and then headed northwards to  the small estate village of Buscot. Before 1977 this was actually in Berkshire.

 

Buscot village hall

Cotswold roof detail

Most of the buildings were constructed from warm, sandy-yellow, Cotswold stone.  Research  later revealed that most of the village is owned by the National Trust. Passed a small tea room and onto the lock, the penultimate one on the River Thames (going upstream).

Thames downstream of Buscot lock

Crossed the river and back into Gloucestershire (back to the first county “shire” of this walk). Had our elevenses sitting on a bench by the lock (SU2304 9810) and then headed east on the left bank of the river. Actually it was only generally east as the river meanders quite a bit and the path follows every twist and turn of the water course. We couldn’t take a short cut as the Thames path was fenced in with electric fencing. Our discussion then turned to meanders, river hydraulics, and regime theory and led to P giving a lecture on the Lacy formula. The discussion then moved onto a discourse on consequent and subsequent rivers from T.  The upper Thames and its tributaries is a prime example for the geographers among you.

It whiled away the time and before we knew it we were able to turn away from the river and double back to reach the village of Kelmscott. Our guide book takes this detour to see Kelmscott Manor (SU25109889), home of William Morris - Arts and Craft movement and friend of many of the pre-Raphaelite painters.

Kelmscott Manor

William Morris - what a relief

The manor house was closed so a picture of the front and of a stone relief / representation of the man himself had to suffice, (Grid Ref: SU2499 9902). We also saw the stone panel fence mentioned in the guide book.  A quick chat and photo opportunity with a pony in a nearby field and then straight into The Plough for a couple of lunchtime drinks, (Grid Ref: SU2491 9908). 

Stone panel fence

Nice pub,  didn’t see much of the inside as it was warm enough to sit outside, if you were in the sun. We decided to rate it 7 out of 10.

The Plough, Kelmscott

The path then headed west north west, across several arable fields, mainly kale, probably winter feed for sheep. Then turned down Mill Lane towards Lechlade Mill (which we never actually saw) on the River Leach, a left bank tributary that we will follow later back into the Cotswolds. The path then took a dog leg to follow the actual county boundary between Gloucestershire and  Oxfordshire and we eventually arrived at another quiet lane leading to Little Faringdon. Time to finish off our remaining sandwiches and snacks before heading along this quiet lane with grass and moss growing in the middle of the road.  It didn’t remain quiet for long though as “Postman Pat” came bowling down the road to make a delivery to Crossing Cottage, (SP2344 0053).

Intrigued pony

Investigations later showed that this was the site of one of the few level crossings on the East Gloucestershire Railway a branch line from Oxford via Yarnton junction,  Eynsham, Witney and Lechlade to Fairford, closed in 1962. T somehow had a booklet about the old railway at home.

A bit more road walking and we rocked up in Little Faringdon. The village seemed to be dominated by the development of a house (part renovations and part new construction).  Apparently Kate Moss  (model) now lives in Little Faringdon – was this her ten-bedroom house? Perhaps moss growing in the middle of the road was appropriate? A large bonfire was under construction in the paddock opposite the church – the phrase “bonfire of the vanities” springs to mind. As there was plenty of time to wait for the bus we had a look around the small church (SP2262 0141) one of a combined parish of about ten other local church parishes.

Little Faringdon church

Then a long wait on the side of the A361 (SP2229 0169) for the Pulham’s Coaches number 64 to Carterton that never turned up. After half an hour we gave up and N phoned for a taxi from Carterton to come and pick us up. Good planning as he had already loaded the taxi number. Fifteen minutes later we were being whisked along in comfort to the said large village to meet T’s Mum again. “Sorry, a bit late. B***** bus”. 

Blasted oak near Little Faringdon

Then the drama began. P realised that he must have left is glasses in the taxi. Luckily were weren’t far away and a phone call to the taxi driver and the use of the map app on a smart phone meant that T & P could find the taxi driver’s house in Carterton and reunite P with his glasses. Quick cuppa chez T’s Mum’s and eventually home. 

Many thanks to T’s Mum who supplied apples and snacks and a welcome cuppa and probably drove her last car journey as she is giving up the car at the end of November.

In summary: Another pleasant and mild day (is this climate change?) Managed a bit further than last time and clocked up 8.8 miles. Dare we call this K day? - kind weather, Kelmscott, kale and Kate who we never saw. (Didn’t see the bus either!)