The Seven Shires Way - Stage 13

Aston Hill to Henley-on-Thames, Friday 6 December 2013

So here we are in Oxford waiting for the 280 bus to Thame. Actually this will be the last time we start from Oxford for a long time. Weather mild and pleasant for December.

Arrived in Thame at 10:30 and the first job was to visit the pie shop. N had been planning on eating his steak pie for weeks. Two paces down the road and one mouthful and “No it’s chicken and leek!” Never mind it was warming. Caught the 40 bus from Thame going to High Wycombe and eventually we arrived at the top of Aston Hill on the A40 and so we started walking at 11:15. 

Our shadows on the sarsen stone

Bit cooler on top of the Chilterns and before we had gone very far we stopped for a picture of a large sarsen stone in the verge our guide book speculated that this was once an ancient boundary marker.

Last view of the M40

Further on we crossed the M40 for the eighth and last time on the Seven Shires Way; just where the M40 cuts up through the Chilterns. We were happy to say farewell. It will be good to get away from the constant drone of the M40. As mentioned on several occasions we have been amused by how protestors complain about what HS2 might do to the countryside while sitting in villages blighted 24/7 by the motorway.

We pressed on, down through the delightful beech woods of the Wormsley Estate, to follow a typical Chiltern dry-valley bottom. Most of the leaves had been blown from the trees. Lots of evidence of pheasant rearing, grain scattered on the path, water and feeding points.” What’s this - a cricket ground?” In part of Wormsley Park is a cricket ground, a remote but beautiful setting. Past sheep and then a steep but short climb up to the village (hamlet) of Northend stopping on the way up to look at the aerobatics of a light aircraft above (Pitts Special?)

Looking north from near Northend

Our progress had been followed ever since the Wormsley Estate by six circling Red Kites. Were they waiting for us the falter and fall? After all they serve the function of vultures!

Chiltern valley view

We now decided to take a slight detour from the recommended route, which we had done before on the Oxfordshire Way and followed the lane towards Turville Heath and then dropping down the valley side to wards Turville Park Farm stopping for our St Nikolas Day packed lunch on the way.

Helicopter - POSH toy

While eating we watched a helicopter buzzing along at low level. Conversation turned to discussing John Mortimer (this is Paradise Postponed country after all and then P gave us a reading from a book relating the experiences of a couple who had walked the Thames Path. Amusing in parts.

From Turville Park Farm we experienced a rare event - the path actually followed the country boundary between Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire – rather than criss-crossing it and nearly following it.

Stonor Deer

Down to the village of Stonor, past the entrance to Stonor Park and its herds of deer and looked at where we had crossed this route in October 2010 while on the Shakespeare Way, between Watlington to Hambledon.

A steep climb from the village (probably the steepest gradient so far encountered) and came out above Almshill Wood. (This was another deviation from Elaine Steane’s route. We had climbed through Stonor Park and Kildridge Wood and Southend three years ago.) Re-joined the recommended route at Coxlease Farm, where a team of workers from somewhere in eastern Europe (from their language) where busy putting the final touches to some renovations to the farmhouse. In time for Christmas? An impressive view from this “grand design”, we doubt Kevin McCloud would have been impressed with the very smelly cattle house next door.

Fantastic views to the south from this ridge walk as we continued south. T claimed the distant hills on the horizon where the Hampshire Hills near Basingstoke (jury is out on that one).

The path gently descended and we joined the road to Middle Assendon. What next? It was 15:30 and the Rainbow Inn was shut despite N peering in through the windows and trying the door. We had agreed earlier that we were not going to follow the path into Henley. We had done this route from Middle Assendon through Henley park an at least two occasions while following the Oxfordshire Way.  So off-route and head up the hill to Bix and catch a bus into Henley. Stopped for a breather in some woods for some malt whisky courtesy of P. These were juniper trees –perhaps the sloe gin would have been more appropriate – next time. Gently ascended to Bix to  the accompaniment of distant gun fire from a pheasant shoot.

The 139 bus came just before the light went and we made it nearly into Henley. The Christmas market meant that the bus stopped short so there was a bit more walking into town and then a circuit of the town looking for a pub. On the recommendation of a taxi office (N stopped and asked) we plumped for the Anchor Pub. Fairly cosy a bit dark (seemed to be heavy on seasonal candles) – rated by us as a 5.

There are various options to return from Henley, buses or train. We opted for the train and journeyed back via Twyford to our respective stops in Reading, Didcot and Oxford. T & P had differing versions of the timetable and N couldn’t navigate his smart phone to the FGW site and then P had to return to the pub to collect his glasses! Anyhow we made the train and home. 

In summary: The POSH walk – Pheasants, cricket Oval, Shooting and Helicopter (or Henley if you like). Distant walked was a bit debatable, it was 9.6 miles to Bix but by the time we had walked around Henley we made it 11.1 miles. True not all of it was on the Seven Shires Way but here we are in Henley – halfway.  A delightful walk across the  Chilterns, goodbye to Buckinghamshire and hello to Berkshire.