The Seven Shires Way - Stage 26

Kingham station to Moreton-in-Marsh station - Friday 7 August 2015

So this is it the last leg of our trek around Oxfordshire  - in a clockwise direction (is that significant?)The weather looked promising as we enjoyed the train to Kingham. T had caught it at Reading and P and N joined the train at Oxford along with a crowd of festival goers heading for a gathering at Cornbury (Charlbury) and a family of cyclists - complete with their bikes!

We came from over there

Anyhow we arrived at Kingham at 09:50 and set off to retrace our steps to Bledington to pick up the route across the fields and the old railway from Kingham to Cheltenham. Fairly good progress across the quiet Evenlode flood plain along a path that would be extremely muddy if the weather had been rainy. Emerged into a field of young calves who had just been released into the big green world and then crossed the river and Oxford to Worcester railway just south of Daylesford (Grid Ref: SP2428 2558).

We were very close to Adlestrop made famous by the poem of the same name by Edward Thomas. According to Wikipedia Adlestrop House is thought to have been used as the model for the house in “Mansfield Park” by Jane Austen.

Daylesford Park

Past Daylesford Farm (an award winning organic farm and shop featured not that long ago on the BBC's farming programme). We didn't stop for morning coffee.

It was starting to get warm in the sun as we turned north-eastwards to parallel the county boundary. There was a fine herd of Gloucestershire cattle in the field, source of milk for Double Gloucester cheese.

Gloucester cattle

Carried on up the hill. Umh! We hadn't realised there would be any climbing this walk. “Bet we lose all the height again” said one of our cheery band! In the woods there was a helicopter warning sign.  We were walking through posh land indeed.

Distant Chippy

Through equally posh stables and buildings of Daylesford Hill farm with its statute to apparently a famous horse (SP2572 2660) and then on to follow the county boundary and a lunch stop at SP2659 4266 above the small village of Cornwell. We hadn't realise how close we were to Chipping Norton which we could see on the hill to the east.

Cornwell

 After our short lunch we descended (“Told you we would lose all that height”) and skirted Cornwell to head north-westwards towards Chastelton. Cornwell, so our book tells us, was restored by Clough Williams-Ellis, who designed Portmeirion in North Wales. No Italianate buildings here or pottery churning out pieces of “Cornwell” ware for the tourist trade.

Slogged up the minor road across the A436 and took a rest at Chastleton Barrow, an iron-age enclosure, (SP2580 2828). After a 20 to 30 minute rest / sleep we moved on through a field of very fine black cattle (Aberdeen Angus?) a mixture of cows, calves and bull(s). “Isn't there some guidance to farmers strongly suggesting that cows with calves and bulls shouldn't be put in fields crossed by footpaths?” Anyhow we carefully skirted the animals who were happy to remain lying down and emerged through a kissing gate onto the road just above the car park to the National Trust property of Chastleton House.

Chastleton House

T had been there before so suggested diverting through the car park and down the hill side to the Church next to the House for afternoon tea. A local volunteer group serve tea and homemade cakes to eager NT visitors. We found a table and chairs among the gravestones and in the shade of a yew tree had a very welcome mug of tea and a slice of cake each. This was N's treat, which was greatly appreciated.

Afternoon tea

It was about 15:15. After finishing the crumbs of cake and draining our mugs we decided to head to Moreton-in-Marsh on the more direct minor road route, deviating from the recommended footpaths but hopefully saving some time.

We now set off on a four mile walk back to Moreton-in-Marsh, stopping on the way to celebrate the end of the route at the Four Shire Stones, next to the busy A44, (SP2305 3216). It was three years since we were last here on the start of the walk. Older? – yes. Wiser?- doubtful, but certainly happy to have completed the walk even if we had taken ages over it and taken some strategic short cuts in the process. Took numerous pictures and then headed off to catch the homeward train in Moreton-in-Marsh. T was certain there was a train at 18:10 but also thought there was a train at 16:40ish. “We can make it. If not we can visit a pub in town.”

Hats off

As we crossed the railway there was the train leaving, 16:22. “Sorry chaps I knew it was 16 something.” Well looks like its pub time. We slowly ambled towards the station. “No wait”. We inspected the timetable there is another train at 16:45. So long wait avoided and we'll save the pub for another day. After another pleasant day walking we were on the train home with thoughts and ideas about what we could do next.

In summary: Today it was 12.2 miles, our longest leg (section) of the Seven Shires way. Today was perhaps F day – finally finished, fine weather, and fab. Tea.

Four shires stone

It has taken us three years,  in 26 legs or sections to do this walk, officially 234 miles but we did it in 226 miles, (doubt if we qualify for the badge), which included some on and offs and some short cuts and avoidance of bits we had walked before.

A fascinating walk with lots of contrast from the hyphenated locales of the Cotswolds, to the ironstone villages near Banbury. Up onto the beech-wooded Chilterns from the flat clay lands near Bicester. Through smart villages with no shops near Henley and Burford and across the open horse-racing downs in the south of the county.

Memories are numerous and varied: Windy bus stations in Banbury and Swindon. A range of pubs - from the scruffy to carpeted establishments but with several that were delightful and quirky. Sadly many of these great places are now closed.  A  tea shop in Warwickshire, that served wine, a pub like a castle, tea and cake in a graveyard and an inn whose car park contained two Ferraris and a Lamborghini. Often we seem to have been chased by a variety of cattle in fields all around the county, (its probably all in the mind.) Transport memories of buses that were late (sometimes) or never actually turned up, and helpful and talkative taxi drivers.

Daylesford tree

What is surprising is how few people we have actually ever seen on the walks. True we tended to be walking on a Friday but much of the countryside of Oxfordshire and its neighbours is apparently deserted. Perhaps it was because we were on the borders.

At times our progress has been hampered by work commitments (for some), sore knees, barbed wire, broken styles, poor signage and even poorer map reading, floods and poor weather.

Overall though it has been enjoyable and just shows how easy it is to find different places within a short distance from our respective homes.

Any way enough of this. Let’s plan for something else soon.

The Seven Shires Way - Stage 25

Great Barrington to Kingham station - Friday 26 June 2015

Yet again we are on the S2 bus to Carterton sharing stories about how we made it (slowly) back to Oxford last time. Pretty sure this will be the last time we will see Carterton! Ace taxis out to Great Barrington where we left off at the beginning of June. How time flies we are already past mid-summer with 180 or so days to Christmas! (Sorry).

Weather looked good for walking and we set off at a fair pace across fields with great displays of wild flowers (scabious, corn flowers, poppies, etc) in a generally northerly direction to the accompaniment of Skylarks and other small brown (unidentified) birds. Picked up the county boundary at Miletree Clump (Grid ref: SP2146 1578) to then head south eastwards. The county boundary certainly zig-zags around.  Followed the “zig” for half a mile and then “zagged” NE towards Tangley Hall. As we descended through woods to the Hazleford Brook (sometime tributary of the River Windrush) we realized it was quite humid so we  were pleased to get back into a breeze on top of the hill near Tangley Hall (SP2338 1687). This hamlet was well (and apparently expensively) fenced against all intruders, human or animal, but we could see the tennis courts through gaps in the fence.

Fields of barley

Stopped for elevenses (first sandwich of the day - N had missed his meat pie / pasty in Carterton!) Discussed future walks, what are we going to do when we finish this three year epic? We took a vote on which way to go. Should we follow the recommended route towards Little Rissington airfield (disused) or save some time and head straight towards Fifield? We opted (sensibly as it turned out) for the latter. So pushed on up over the A424 (main road from Burford to Stow on the Wold) and down through rape and barley fields to the pretty village of Fifield. We found a convenient bench and had another sandwich, sushi, coffee, etc and watched a selection of horses and dogs taking their owners for a walk. The village was quiet and didn't seem to sport a pub or shop.

Large house, Idbury

Right then chaps the next village is Idbury. Ok, time to put on the rain gear as clouds had built up and it was starting to spot with rain. Nothing too bad though. Across several stiles and passed one of the dog walkers again (walking faster than us on her clockwise sojourn). Didn't see too much of Idbury, several large houses behind high hedges and walls.

We were now getting back to the area we last saw seven years ago when starting out on the Oxfordshire Way. Little did we think that we were at the beginning of a trek across, through and around Oxfordshire all those years ago.

We often mention following or crossing the county boundary but this time we thought we would share with you an obvious change of road surface just outside Nether Westcote (SP2291 2017).  Gloucestershire Highways had just re-surfaced the road and made sure they hadn't strayed into Oxfordshire. We went wrong in Nether Westcote and turned down the first lane so missed the main part of the small village. There was a pub marked on the map but it was no longer the New Inn but now a hotel cum smart (allegedly) dining place ideal for a Cotswold weekend.

Spot the join

We then descended the scarp slope down onto the clays lands of the Evenlode valley. The guide book warned that the bridleway towards Bledington could be very muddy. Well it was right, we hadn't had any significant rain for several weeks and still there were muddy spots to be negotiated.  After about a mile and a half of deeply rutted path we came across a strangely mown path which then headed out towards a deeply ploughed field where we joined the Oxforshire Way. (Hooray!). On the way we examined the deep plough furrows for erratic (ex-glacial) stones and N loaded up his pockets with interesting sand stone pebbles from the Midlands.

We were getting tired and thirsty so were looking forward to getting to Bledington. Stopped near the churchyard for the final sandwich and snack and then headed towards the Kings Head pub for a couple of drinks. We are last here in 2008.

 “Not too much”, cautioned P, “we've still to walk to Kingham Station.”(Just over a mile away along the busy B4450).

Arrived at Kingham station (SP2564 2276) in time to catch an HST back to Oxford and Reading along with school children eager to return home from a variety of private/public schools in the Kingham / Chipping Norton area. Great - we are back on a train. Next time we won’t need to use the bus!

By the way, T forgot the camera so photos courtesy of N and his phone.

In summary: 10.7 miles today. With any luck we should be able to complete that whole walk next time. G day – goodbye Carterton, goodbye S2 bus and a grand-day-out. See you next month.

The Seven Shires Way - Stages 23 & 24

Little Faringdon to Eastleach Martin and then onto Great Barrington -  Friday 8 May and Friday 5 June 2015

It is now Spring 2015 and to ease ourselves back into trekking all the way to west Oxfordshire we decided to wait until the clocks had gone forward (British Summer Time, GMT +1). In the meantime we did a short walk from Oxford station to Besslesleigh on 20 March – though more of that in another post.

Back in the Cotswolds

So here we were again on 8 May in Oxford waiting for the S2 bus to whisk us to Carterton and then to Little Faringdon by taxi. Weather didn't look too good and it was due to rain by 1pm. We arrived in Carterton and then discovered we didn't have any taxi numbers. No worries, here is the Library. Ah the door is locked but the lights are on, has a new Government policy been implemented already? (The 2015 general election had been held the day before). However, just as we turned away a library lady appeared from inside and unlocked the door. Several minutes were then taken in trying to find taxi numbers but to no avail. “Let's try down the road at the Coop Travel Agency” – success, they even ordered the taxi for us and before long we were zooming along on the way to the start of the walk just outside Little Faringdon.

Southrop - Water management

We actually got started around 10:45 and followed the course of the River Leach along a not too well-trodden path and eventually emerged onto a minor road to Southrop (pronounced “Sowrup”). Stopped for a coffee and first sandwich of the day on a bridge over the river and admired the natural-looking garden and water management of the adjacent properties, Grid ref: SP2032 0351.

Leach valley

We were now getting into the Cotswolds, with that warm oolitic limestone and mixture of thatched, Stonesfield-slated and welsh-tiled roofs. Conversations turned to updating each other on family news, the weather, old and present work connections and inevitably to the election result. “Don't mention the E word”. OK we agreed to avoid any discussion about the result though we had to remind ourselves several times during the day of that agreement. 

 

We now turned north out of the village across a traditional stone stile and headed across pasture fields towards the Eastleach villages (Eastleach Turville and Eastleach Martin). The surrounding land was gently rising and we were starting to ,get those traditional views of the Cotswolds.

By the time we reached the villages it was just after midday and guess what  the pub, “The Victoria” in Eastleach Turville, was open, (SP1983 0527). It makes a change to actually find a village pub that is open. “Look chaps,” said P, “it's likely to start raining soon”. So we agreed to have a quick pint and then head off in the Burford direction. Well one pint lead onto another, lunching-customers come and went and before long, and after a few beers and a whisky, we  decided it was time to go. On reflection we rated the pub 8 out of 10, mainly for the ambiance, being open and generally for being not too fussy.

The Victoria, Eastleach Turville

“Do you realise it's 14:45?” OK, rethink. “Let's walk down into Eastleach Martin and phone for a taxi to Carterton.” The rain hadn't materialized to any great effect!

Lovely stone clapper bridge over the river down to E. Martin church, (SP2023 0522). No mobile signal, so back up the hil to the pub (which had now closed) by another route to get some sort of signal and a phone call to Ace taxis!

Eastleach Turville

Had to wait for 40 minutes as it was now school run time. The taxi eventually found us and took us back to Carterton were we could catch an express S2 bus back to Oxford via north Oxford (good for N).

Oh dear not the most impressive of walks in distance terms, in fact Little Faringdon to Eastleach was 4.3 miles – our shortest leg so far! Let's call it the E-Day, the E result that must not be spoken about, the E villages and an Easy walk!

Clapper bridge, River Leach

We agreed that we would combine our record of this very short walk on 8 May with the next one on 5 June. Back to Carterton on the S2 and this time we had the number of Ace Taxis so a speedy journey to Eastleach Martin and off again at 10:25. The weather was kind, warm, not much cloud and likely to be the warmest day of the year so far. Luckily there was a breeze which made walking in the sun tolerable.

The scenery improved as we moved up the meandering valley of the Leach following the course of the ever-diminishing river.

Valley-side

About 0.5km before Sheep Bridge the path turned uphill and soon crossed over the course of Akeman Street (SP1999 0730). We were last here when following the Roman Way in June 2011.

Towards Sheep Bridge

Seven Shires crosses Roman Way

Akeman Street was the “main road” from London (Londinium) to Cirencester (Corinium). The Seven Shires Way last crossed over the same road, in fact the A41 near Ludgershall on 12 July 2013! 

Wild flower meadow

We carried on through bracken and long grass to emerge onto Eastleach Downs and a display of poppies and cornflowers. Time for a mid-morning sandwich listening to Skylarks and the roar of transport aircraft (a Lockheed C130 Hercules and a Lockheed C17 Globemaster) from nearby RAF Brize Norton, doing “circuit and bumps”.

Holwell

Decision time, do we take a short cut and head east towards Holwell or follow the path and county boundary between Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire north for 0.5 km and then double back on ourselves for another 0.5 km past Tom Jollys, (SP2026 0874).

We decided upon the latter and made good progress on this “dog-leg” and then pushed on past Holwell Down Farm towards the small village of Holwell, (SP2323 0913).

 

C17 flyby, Holwell church

Holwell is typical of many of the small villages around here, pretty houses, roses around the front doors, 4X4 vehicles in the gravel drives or parked up on verges, no pubs, no shops, no schools. Peaceful? Yes, apart from the aircraft every two minutes – which seemed to be getter lower with every circuit!

Finished our sandwiches by the church wall and were seemingly “checked out” by one of the residents coming to her garden gate to perhaps make sure that we weren't disturbing the apparent “peace”.

Westwell preaching cross

The route then headed NW towards Westwell, another quiet, even prettier, village, (SP2238 0997). Our trusty guide book informed us that the most westerly spring in Oxforshire feeds the village pond. Took a break on a welcolme bench opposite the remains of a preaching cross. Our sources tell us that Westwell is home to Douglas Hurd, former Foreign Sectretary and MP for Witney. As you all know DC is now the local MP. “ I thought we agreed not to mention the E result”.

Westwell pond

It was now getting warm and we headed NW from Westwell over the B4425 and on towards Little Barrington. The path now followed the d'Arcy Dalton Way (a long distance path from the Oxford canal near Claydon to the Ridgeway at Wayland's Smithy). The farmer had sprayed the crop to mark the line of the footpath which enabled us to trudge, first through a field of winter wheat and then through several fields of rape. Our goal was to reach the hotel and filling station on the A40 and catch a bus back to Oxford. By the time we reached the A40 there was nearly two hours to wait so we decided to walk down the surprisingly busy road into Little Barrington. In our haste to get to the bus stop we had veered from the recommended route which was parallel but 0.5km to the east.

Little Barrington church

On past Little Barrington church and down a lane and over the Windrush river and across the flood plain to Barrington Mill where consdirable development work was taking place. From signs posted on the stiles the path will be diverted around the property in the future – at present it goes right through the garden and past the front door of the old mill. Up a slight incline to Great Barrington (“I thought T said it was all downhill to Great Barrington?”) and, gratefully, to find a bench near the war memorial, (SP2078 1365).

Westwell white horse

A phone call to Ace taxis again, a potential delay of 40 minutes because of school runs but much to our surprise the taxi turned up in 15 minutes and shot us back to Carterton. Why this obsession with Carterton – well the reality is that it is a good hub for buses (two routes to Oxford, local buses to Bampton and Witney and a bus to Swindon). The taxi driver told us that the A40 was closed because of an accident which was going to delay all the buses so time to take stock and replenish the fluids in the nearby Golden Eagle, just across the road from the bus stop, (beer OK, ambiance nothing special, 5 out of 10.)

The buses were delayed and we split, N waited for the S2 and P&T took the first S1 into Oxford via Eynsham. Being the first bus meant it stopped everywhere and filled up. The journey back to Oxford took 80 minutes!

In summary: A more respectable 9.5 miles on 5 June, (Q day - quiet scenery, quaint villages and traffic queues). This makes 13.8 miles in total over these two days. We are now back on track and in sync with the book. 

The Seven Shires Way - Stage 22

Goring-on-Thames to Cholsey - Friday 20 February 2015

We left off our story at the end of October 2014 in Little Faringdon (Stage 21). Sorry we have been remiss in not walking or communicating with the wider world since then. T apparently injured his knee and was reluctant to overdo it so walking was off until after Christmas. Then the usual combination of poor weather and other commitments meant that we just didn’t get walking again until the end of February, well into the New Year.

Countryside between Streatley and Moulsford

One way to get back to walking and try out the knees and boots was to do the short walk from Goring Station to Cholsey Station following the Thames Path which also had the advantage of filling in the gap that we had created last year when we stopped at Goring, (see Stage 18).  It was also easy to access the start and finish of the route by using the trains from Reading, Didcot and Oxford.

Anyhow – not a bad day for February and we all made it to Goring Station for a late start, across the river through the car park of the Swan Hotel at Streatley (SU59508085) and out across the muddy water meadows on the right bank of the Thames heading upstream to Cholsey.

Geese

Good to get back to walking and catching up on family news and gossip. We stopped for a sandwich where the county boundary leaves the river (SU5967 8299) and saw some geese in an adjacent field.  

   

Geese close-up

A gentle stroll past the Beetle and Wedge Pub (Restaurant) (SU5933 8364)and up Ferry Lane, Moulsford to the A329. We were last here on 28 February 2014 (Stage 14).

Past the various private prep-schools and their playing fields of Moulsford and under the railway viaduct (SU5950 8477) to re-join the river. There are temporary site works just downstream of the viaduct where contractors have set up base for the overhead electrification of the railway. Another mile and we were walking past the new housing built on the site of the old Fairmile Hospital. By then it was about 1pm so why not find somewhere to have a drink before departing from Cholsey Station.

River Thames in February (near South Stoke)

We found the Morning Star pub (SU5930 8592), which was welcome and directly on our route.

The baguettes were good and the beer was reasonable even though it was Greene King.

A fairly friendly local pub which we rated 6 out of 10. The pub (presumably named after the old railway locomotive) is also shared by the Fairmile Sports and Social Club (members only).

Research on Wikipedia later found that the "Morning Star" was the second of the broad gauge, passenger locomotives designed by Robert Stevenson for the Great Western Railway. It was in operation from 1839 to 1869 and would have used the nearby line between London and Bristol.

 A pleasant lunch break, easy stroll to the station and departure to our respective homes stations on various delayed trains. 

 

In summary: Not sure this short walk of 5.6 miles really deserves a summary. Good to get back to walking. Could we call this a “training” day? We certainly used trains at each end of the day!