The Seven Shires Way - Stage 19

Tuesday 29 July 2014

Ashdown House to Bourton / Shrivenham

Ashdown House

“A Tuesday?” said in a Lady Bracknell kind of voice. It wasn’t being careless, just pressures of work and family holidays meant that the only day we could manage was Tuesday 29 July. Well, it was different and quiet.

We had to get back to Ashdown House, we were last here on 17 April (see stage 16). Luckily there is a community minibus C90 that runs from Swindon to Hungerford right past Ashdown House. So an early start and expensive return tickets to Swindon from our respective bases of Reading, Oxford and near Didcot. We met up on the 09:13 departure from Didcot and arrived in Swindon at around 09:30. After a coffee we assembled at Swindon bus station and had time to reminisce about the previous, many times we had stood here. The minibus departed on time and took us out to the Berkshire Downs via Swindon hospital. Quite a long journey and we didn’t set off walking until 10:45.

Ashdown House from Alfred's Castle

The weather was fine - sunny, blue sky, and luckily breezy as it was hot in the sun.

Walked through the parkland to the north of Ashdown House stopping several times to take pictures and then took the wrong path which meant we had to walk around Alfred’s Castle (iron-age fort at Grid Ref: SU2774 8223). Bit further on we didn’t turn off the path (distracted by a tractor and spray) so ended up walking around a wood at Grid Ref: SU2754 8170. Eventually we were on the right path as it slowly climbed up the dip slope towards the Ridgeway.

Above Bishopstone looking north

We reached the Ridgeway above Idstone at Idstone Hill (Grid Ref: SU2636 8354) and turned west. It was getting hot so we stopped for a quick bite (late elevenses) just about on the Oxfordshire-Wiltshire border. Actually it was fairly busy on the Ridgeway with several couples moving along with the aid of walking poles. We carried on west so as to see the famous strip lynchets (medieval terraces) above Bishopstone. 

Strip lynchets from above

Strip lynchets from below

We were now in Wiltshire our seventh county. We missed the path down through the historical terraces so had to climb a fence before making our way down the hill, through the sheep grazing on the scarp face of the Downs. Goodbye chalk land,  hello flat clay land.

Walked on into the pretty spring-line village of Bishopstone and found the Royal Oak pub, (Grid Ref: SU24498374.) According to our guide book this is the first public house that the route passes since West Ilsley over 30 miles away,

What a great pub, definitely a bit quirky, selection of books to read and games to play. Beer on offer was mostly Arkells, started on Wiltshire Gold but soon gravitated to the slightly stronger Moonlight. P was feeling good about the place, we all were, so we decided to sample the food - locally produced bacon, sausages and goat cheese in a variety of open sandwiches. Excellent. Pub rated 9 out of 10 on our very subjective scoring system.

After probably one pint too many we set off  back towards Idstone, back into Oxfordshire. Talk turned to recent holidays in the Ardennes (Belgium), and France (Calais), and strangely the BBC radio programme The Archers. It’s amazing how easy it is to get back into the story of “simple country folk”. We think that was the strap line. Of course none of us admit to following the long-running serial though if pressed could probably recall major events throughout the decades that the show has been running. The walk was becoming a bit Archers like - we had to make way for a herd of milking cows being driven along by a quad bike and then after ducking under various electric fences and clambering over rickety stiles came across the challenge of the day.

Featherbed Lane

Despite being marked as the footpath, with a proud Oxfordshire sign, the path from Idstone to Bourton, Featherbed lane - became totally overgrown between Grid Refs: SU2483 8514 to SU2471 8598.

Overgrown path

We gave up and moved into the adjacent fields. It looked like earlier walkers had done the same. The third field contained some bullocks but they were some distance away so we moved smartly along the fence line. Then they saw us  and decided to investigate at full stampede.

We made it to the gate in the corner of the field just in front of the excitable steers. Damn, the gate had been tied shut with baler twine – a farming tradition of not trusting walkers to shut the gate so tying it shut to start with.

No problem in the end, though we could have done without the enforced 30m dash.

Are we going to complain to the footpath man at Oxfordshire County Council? Is the path the overgrown route or now diverted through the adjacent fields (probably to the dislike of farmers and walkers alike)?

We walked on through the stables and horse paddocks of Fern Farm and on to the road to Bourton. The recommended path then continued through some rough land (yet again overgrown) so we prudently choose to walk along the lane into Bourton and took a break on a bench in the churchyard, (Grid Ref: SU2337 8678), to eat the remains of our packed lunches.

Summary: Another delightful day, the “Ashdown, Arkells and Archers” day. Fairly easy walking, though the footpath bashing and heat towards the end of the day meant we were all fairly tired by the time we returned to Swindon. Mileage was 10 miles.

The Seven Shires Way - Stage 18

Friday 20 June 2014

Caversham to Goring-on-Thames

This time a relatively easy walk from Caversham to Goring (or to give it its posh title “Goring-on-Thames”) following the course of the Thames path, which is the Oxfordshire border. Easy train rides for P & N to Reading to meet T at Reading station north so we were able to set off at 09:45.

Boathouse, Caversham

Boat and House, Caversham

Weather was fine and sunny, blue sky and the chance of unthreatening clouds later on. 

The exit at Reading station was busy with construction as the short-term drop-off point was under construction. Americans sometimes call these areas “Kiss and Ride”. N was impressed with the progress that Reading borough and Reading station are making to integrate trains, buses and taxis. Reading have even introduced the “ReadyBike”, bit like the mis-named “Boris Bikes” in London.

We walked down to the river and headed west under Caversham Bridge and past the site of Reading Festival opposite the posh houses on the north bank at Caversham. One or two runners, dog walkers and cyclists but generally quiet as we approached Tilehurst station.

Goodbye Reading

Here the path is confined to a narrow strip of land between the railway embankment and the river. Stopped for the first snack of the day at the boundary of Reading with West Berkshire  marked by a much overgrown large maroon sign of welcome to Reading listing all the towns that Reading is twinned with, Dusseldorf, Germany; Clonmel, Ireland; San Francisco Libre, Nicaragua and Speightstown, Barbados. Who was the sign originally intended for - river users?

Climbed up the steps, over the railway to the site of the ex-Roebuck Inn and then followed the main road for a few hundred metres before diving into the woods and emerging into a private housing estate in Purley.

Purley Pearly Gates?

We were amused to see some large gates protecting some large house so took a picture with the pun in mind of "pearly gates". P was concerned that T was taking pictures of security arrangements while sporting a head scarf that made him look like someone from the PLO.

Over the newly raised railway bridge in preparation for the electrification of the GWR and across the flood meadows towards Mapledurham Lock. The older properties around here all have their living areas well above flood level with steps up a metre or so to the front door. Lower Purley is well known for annual floods through that doesn’t seem to have worried some developers.

Hardwick House - Toad Hall?

There was a tea room next door to the lock though we didn’t stop. It appeared quite popular. We were now back on the tow path. Passed opposite Hardwick House (Grid Ref: SU6593 7773) which some claim was the model for Toad Hall as used by Kenneth Graham in his book “The Wind in the Willows”. It was now getting hot and lunchtime was approaching so we stopped at a small inlet at Grid Ref: SU6452 7715 and had our sandwiches watching what appeared to be a flock of Alpacas in the field across the river.

Alpacas

The path crosses the river at Whitchurch (Grid Ref: SU6362 7683) back into Oxfordshire. The toll bridge is under repair, actually there is no road bridge at present though conveniently a temporary foot bridge has been erected.   

This is the beginning of the Goring Gap where the Thames splits the Berkshire Downs from the Chilterns.

Chilterns' Edge

In geographical terms the Goring Gap is a communications gap where the railway, river and road are all funnelled through the gap formed by the river in post glacial times. This put T in mind of an educational board game “Roads, rivers and railways” that was a one time favourite of his family.

Near Whitchuch

We followed the road through the village of Whitchurch (P claimed this was a boyhood home of Cameron D, the current PM). The lane turned left (north) and slowly climbed up above the river and soon became a well-trodden path undulating its way north through woodlands up above the river with glimpses below of the river Thames and the National Trust property of Basildon Park – used as Netherfield Park in the 2004 film of Pride and Prejudice (some say it was also used as Grantham House in the Christmas special of Downton Abbey – but we don’t watch that).

We were all taken with how beautiful the Goring Gap is. It forms a natural border between Berkshire and Oxfordshire; west and east and a divide between the Vale of the White Horse to the north and manicured suburban Berkshire (as was).

Near Coombe Park

We were making good progress past Coombe Park so as the path dropped back down to the flood plain we felt it was time for a rest and a final snack. 

Reflections of the walk

Just before Gatehampton we found a convenient bench next to a dressage practice ring, complete with large mirror. (Grid Ref: SU6101 7965) so were able to sit and reflect on the day!

Quietly flows the Thames

Back to the tow path, this side on the Oxfordshire bank, under a Brunel railway bridge and eventually into Goring. We have been here before on the Ridgeway walk in 2009 and walked from here to Wallingford in December of that year so have therefore claimed the small section from here to Moulsford as already walked.

Thankfully arrived at the Catherine Wheel pub (Grid Ref: SU5997 8064) and after three pints of Ringwood Forty Niner (4.9%) we rated the place 8 out of 10. A short walk to the railway station and respective trains home.

Summary: A delightful day, a “river, road and railways” day. Fairly easy walking, a bit up and down between Whitchurch and Goring. Mileage was 11.4 miles. Next time we are back to the open country of the Berkshire Downs and the delights of Swindon bus station!

Water lilies

The Seven Shires Way - Stage 17

Henley-on-Thames

Weirs at Marsh Lock, Henley-on-Thames

to Caversham

Friday 2 May 2014

As we said last time the floods have now receded so we can actually do the missing section of the walk along the south-east corner of Oxfordshire. The author’s problem though is trying to remember what we did!

This is in T’s home area so all he had to do was turn up at Reading Station to meet N and P. A short train ride with a change at Twyford meant we set off from Henley station at 10:45.

Riverside living

Live above the floods - if you can

Weather was a bit cool and there was a threat of rain early on.




We headed along the river bank (Thames) heading upstream towards Shiplake, past Marsh (Henley) Lock and took photos of typical riverside cottages - more like mansions.One or two other walkers (mostly dog walkers.)

The going was easy and we were soon into our stride as the path headed away from the river to go around Bolney Court. Some massive home improvement / construction going on here. Strange building in the garden which appeared to be a model railway station - very central European looking. In fact there was a model railway line in the garden. P promised to check up on South Oxfordshire’s planning site to see what the “improvement” was all about.

Path zig-zagged through Lower Shiplake, across the branch line at Shiplake station and through the village of mixed housing until we reached the river again at Shiplake lock. Time for a coffee and sandwiches watched closely by the lock keeper’s Siamese cat.

Cat at Shiplake lock

Continued along the Oxfordshire bank (left bank) past Shiplake College (private school) up on a classic river cliff and then across the flood plain towards Sonning. Lots of evidence of the winter floods, rather brown looking crops, debris caught in barbed wire fences and some narrow boats looking the worse for wear.

Fewer people now and a chance to listen to birdsong (heard our first cuckoo) between the flights turning for final approach to Heathrow, (bit of discussion about flights, aircraft, etc. etc.) Then a group of about 30 runners headed towards us and extracted a monetary donation from us. They were heading to London and had started out from Reading (tonight’s stop was Marlow). The fitter ones at the front were carrying the money-collecting buckets. The stragglers, dare we say the less fit, looked like they wouldn’t get past Henley. Never mind it was all for a good cause though we can’t remember what it was for. 

Arrived at Sonning Bridge (Reading’s unofficial third bridge) which was out of action for many weeks in the winter because the access road from the north was flooded. By now the sun had come out and we were thirsty so crossed the bridge through the churchyard and found the Bull Inn (5 out of 10) at Sonning. The sort of pub where we take off our boots. An Aston Martin, two BMWs and a upmarket Mercedes in the small car park. Beer was good (Fullers Spring Ale). After a couple of pints we returned to the Thames Path (now on the Berkshire side) upstream of Sonning stopping at Sonning lock for our remaining sandwiches. The well-made path passes below Bluecoats School (what is it about private schools and the river – good access for rowing?).

An easy walk along the river with a wide-ranging discussion about the merits of public transport. T had spent the day before riding about on the trams of Sheffield while daughter J had been to the University. Discussion drifted onto N’s love of Italian motor bikes and P’s fear that we were becoming “petrol heads”.

Eventually the footbridge over the River Kennet – Kennet and Avon Canal and officially into Reading. This is probably the southern most point of the walk. N remarked that it really was quite nice and not what he was expecting. Reading is adjacent to the Thames so a walk along the river can avoid many of the offices, and busy roads of the town (missed city status again last year).

Reading Bridge - 1925

Pressed on past the inevitably Tesco, past the flats with their blue ski jump roofs (lived in by Reading football players – urban myth?), across the water meadows to Caversham lock, under Reading Bridge and to our goal Caversham Bridge. Another high-end car, a Maserati crossing Caversham Bridge with a deep roar of twin exhausts. P now convinced that T is a closet “petrol head”. In our rush to the bus stop forgot to take photos of Reading and Caversham Bridge. Never mind will use something from the internet!

Well it's different

It was now around 16:00 so the plan was to take a bus to T’s home for cream tea. A colleague of N&T’s saw us waiting so we managed to  squeeze ourselves, knapsacks and walking stick into his car and he kindly gave us a lift the one and a half miles to tea. Cy was at home so we had a welcome rest to partake of tea, cake, homemade scones, clotted cream and jam. 

All good things come to an end so T then took N to the station for the return to Oxford and then drove P to a nearby village for baby-sitting duties with grandchildren.

Summary: A good day - “Runners, railways, and real tea”. Fairly easy walking (no stiles again!). Mileage was 10 miles. See you next time when we complete the Thames section of the walk from Caversham to Goring.