Cotswold Way : Stage 1

Bath to Lansdown  - Monday 9 April 2018

Bath Abbey

Here we are again on the “usual” train from Didcot (d. 09:40) to Bath Spa. We didn’t manage to find the time or a reasonable patch of weather in March to undertake another ”Training” walk so we opted at fairly short notice to get started on the Cotswold Way to return northwards to Chipping Campden and eventually to Banbury.

We are following the Cotswold Way which is a fairly well defined path with clear waymarks and a  guide book “Walking the Cotswold Way” by Kev Reynolds published by Cicerone. The path is described in both directions which is helpful as we discovered that we are doing the walk the less fashionable way, south to north. No matter the prevailing wind should be behind us for most of the way.

We (all four of us; P, N, A and T) set off through the streets of Bath and declared the beginning of the walk outside Bath Abbey, next to the Roman Baths. The weather could have been warmer though the rain held off. It was a Monday morning but the streets were quite busy with shoppers and tourists. Bath we guess is one of those 365-days a year destination. We zig-zagged through the streets, passing the Jane Austen Centre and a posh hotel that N and wife were planning to stay in. Up to the Circus and along to the Royal Crescent. Further on was a fairground packing up to move onto the next venue and we had to weave through their massive trucks. It was interesting to see the backs of the Georgian Terraces which contrasts greatly with the “Bath stone” fronts.

The Royal Crescent, Bath

Climbing all the time up what we later found out was Primrose Hill we passed the water treatment works and came out in the suburb of Weston. Up another hill, sorry P, we eventually left the built up area and started out into the countryside and towards Kelston Round Hill.

Conversations varied between catching up on N’s business travel, getting updates on respective children and their employment or studies. Actually we didn’t have much breath for chatting as the path climbed steadily. We had started out at about 20m above sea level and were now approaching 200 m ASL. It was time for a break but where to stop? 

"Useful Bench", Prospect Stile

We came to “useful” bench and a reasonable view at Prospect Stile, Grid Reference ST7131 6831. S we took the chance of a sit-down to eat our respective packed lunches with a view back the way we had come (climbed) past Kelston Round Hill.

Back towards Kelston Round Hill

We were on the edge of Bath Racecourse. The path skirted the western edge of the course and then dropped down and around to Lansdown Golf Course. Some other walkers passed us heading to Bath in a very determined way with major back-packs and walking poles. We expect to see more walkers on our travels along the Cotswold Way as this is one of the well-known walks. Compare this to the Seven Shires Way of a few years ago when we rarely saw anyone and often had difficulty in finding the path!

Sculptures in the rain

David Michael Morse (1942-2016)

It started to rain – that’s why those walkers were so determined. It wasn’t too wet and by now the path had levelled out. We came across some interesting metal sculptures in a field beside the path.

The nearby information board told us these were by the late David Michael Morse (1942-2016) but we have not been able to find out anything more about him.

Information: Battle of Lansdown

We were getting tired and by the time we reached the site of the Battle of Lansdown(e) (English Civil War) 5^th July 1643, we decided that it was time to return to Bath. We headed past the communications buildings of the Avon and Somerset Fire Service and across the main road into Bath. We were just planning to phone for a taxi when A spotted a taxi heading towards Bath. Quick action by A got the chap to stop and we were soon heading back into town, after suitable precautions had been taken by the driver to prevent too much mud from our boots messing up his taxi.

It turned out that he was a local chap and was interested in our modest walking exploits. He was also a Bath Rugby fan, but we won’t hold that against him. We explained our desire for a friendly, unpretentious pub. No problem. He took us to The Salamander on John Street an excellent pub, Bath Ales (though now taken over by St Austell). Certainly, we can give it an 8 out of 10 perhaps 9 out of 10 when we get to know it - excellent  place, warm, and simple décor. We (P, N & T) sampled a few beers, nothing excessive, and liked “Prophecy”. A prefers lager. Then it was time to find the station and the train home. Somehow we headed off in the wrong direction but eventually found the station by heading downhill towards the river. 

Hopefully we were in better shape than this guy

Our first stage of the Cotswold Way was 7.2 miles (11.6km). Not bad as we were all (lets be kind) out of practice. It was good to be walking again. Hopefully we can press on in the next few months as days lengthen and the temperatures go up.

Training Walk: Theale to Pangbourne - 26 February 2018

Well dear readers we made a good start on 22 January with completion of our own invention of Route 66 from Wheatley (Oxford) to Faringdon so the plan was to continue with what we term “training” walks with a local (of sorts) walk from Theale to Panbourne. N was unable to join us as he was away on business in some sunny clime though he assures us that this is usually a basement meeting room in a hotel and he never sees the sun or breathes fresh air. It’s a tough life!

The result was that P, A and T agreed to meet outside the Three Guineas pub by Reading Station and take a JetBlack bus out to Theale.

It was a sunny but cold day. This was just before the much publicised “Beast from the East”. A few cold days with some snow and frost which has been used ever since to account for the economic stutters that the British economy suffered. The weather forecast was correct and it was a lovely day for a winter walk so long as one stayed out of the brisk easterly wind. Apologies in advance, T forgot his camera so the only picture we have is from a phone.

The bus dropped us off in the middle of Theale, grid reference SU6422 7127 and we headed north out of the village towards the hamlet of North Street. The traffic noise from the nearby M4 was ever present which must make “country living” slightly less desirable.

We crossed the motorway by a footbridge (SU6412 7297) which added a few hundred metres to the walk as the pathway spirals up and then down to the over bridge. We carried on eastwards, through a plantation and out into open fields with a splendid view of Sulham Woods. Suddenly quite quiet as the motorway was now downwind

Sulham Wood from SU6452 7322

Plodded up through the wooded slope of Beal’s Copse towards Little Heath Road, SU6542 7317. This is on the edge of Tilehurst, but this is the part that is in West Berkshire even though it is served by Reading Buses number 33!

We turned north and turned off along a very muddy path towards Sulham Woods and past the site of Sadler’s Farm, SU6494 7418). There were splendid views and countryside even though we were on the outskirts of Reading/Tilehurst. We crossed over the lane towards Sulham village and with a detour across an open field joined the path that P & T had followed last year, 12 April 2017. The easterly wind was certainly cold so we were eager to find a sheltered spot in Sulham Wood for our packed lunches. A convenient log or tree stump was found in a relatively sheltered spot with some sunshine, SU64477528.

The path then headed downslope again and across the water meadows and adjacent allotments and through the Horseshoe Industrial estate to the Reading Road in Pangbourne, SU6378 7646. It was time for a warm drink . We headed into the Costa Coffee in Pangbourne and had a welcome coffee/tea before walking to the station for our respective trains to Didcot/Oxford or Reading.

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We managed 5.4 miles, though it was never meant to be more than a way to keep on walking. A really nice walk and surprisingly hilly (as P commented several times). Perhaps something that could be repeated when it is not so cold or muddy.  Sorry about the lack of pictures. Your author attempted to go out there again (on the 33) in March but was not prepared for the muddy paths off of Little Heath Road. Perhaps we will edit this post in the future with additional photography. Though keen readers could look back at the Pangbourne entry in April 2017! Right let’s now press on to the Cotswold Way.