Friday 17 November 2017

Cross-Cotswold Pathway: Stage 10



Luckington to Ford Friday 3 November 2017

There has been a break of nearly four months since we were last in Luckington. The autumn colours were now well developed and many leaves had fallen. We were treated to hollowed-out Halloween pumpkins that had been tricked into sitting on door steps for over a week now and were looking a bit forlorn in the mist. Nevertheless here we were again in a brand new taxi travelling from Chippenham station to the village of Luckington. Having picked the short straw, A was in the front listening to the driver discussing the merits of various vehicles and holiday breaks!

For those of you interested in the travelling arrangements we had been on the “usual” train from Didcot (09:42 departure) taking advantage of train split fares to make the journey affordable. N got a good deal from Oxford but we suspected it was one of those super APEX tickets that weren’t actually valid for the train he was on. Anyhow let's draw a veil over that and get back to the walk.

Blasted Oak
The path followed the Macmillan Way out of Luckington across pasture fields wet with dew and recent rain. Our trouser legs were soon wet though N was fine as he was wearing shorts (it couldn't have been that cold). After about a mile and a half we realised that we had strayed from the path due to a combination of chatting, and the farmer ploughing up the path. We doubted the direction so a combination of compass bearings, GPS coordinates and close inspection of the map meant that we had to track around the field that was being ploughed as we stood there. A (we think) was impressed with our navigation! We crossed another field of winter wheat and were rewarded with the Macmillan Way sign on the next footpath post at Hebden Leaze (Grid Ref: ST8268 8230)
Unblasted Oak

Having re-established our route across an open field (even though the path had been ploughed up) the chat turned to catching up on family news and foreign travel (business and leisure). By the time we had downloaded the sun had burnt off the mist and we dropped down the slope to go under the railway to the east of Badminton. “Pity the station at Badminton closed it would be a really useful stop for the southern Cotswolds”.  We waited a bit to see if one of the new bi-mode trains would pass but nothing came along.

No train : bi-mode or otherwise
We climbed up the slight slope through attractive, small pastures surrounded by old hedges and oak trees.

As we approached Littleton Drew, the sole on A's boot left close-company from the rest of his boot. However, he engineered a solution with the laces to keep his boot in reasonable order for the rest of the day. (He is an engineer after all).

All Saints church, Littleton Drew
Village library
It was lunchtime so we took advantage of the posh bench in the middle of this small village opposite the church, to have our sandwiches/rolls/sushi! This was a pretty village though there was no obvious shop or pub.

The village phone box had been converted into a lending library. The village was quiet apart from the constant rumble of traffic from the M4 which was about 0.5 km away.

Posh bench
After lunch our path followed the road under said motorway and after crossing the B4039 we walked down the lane to the attractive mill at Goulter's Mill Farm (ST8326 7908). There was a bit more confusion with the route on the other side of the valley. We opted for the path up the hill and came out correctly at the Lugbury Long Barrow or what remains of it, (ST8307 7856).
Lugbury Long Barrow


The path took a dog leg and then passed over the line of the Fosse Way at Lugbury Farm. Here was our first sign of the goal of our walk – Bath (see below).

Bybrook river, Netherton Mill
Welcome to Castle Combe
Another lane took us downhill to Netherton Mill on the Bybrook river, (ST8335 7755).  It looked like the buildings had been renovated and turned into holiday lets. The scenery had changed and we were now in the well-manicured landscape of a golf course. There were several golfers around driving their buggies and swinging their drivers (plan was to say something witty here).

Market cross, Castle Combe
We passed several walkers and then climbed a short slope up though a wood to come out above the village of Castle Combe (lower village). This is really a strange, unreal place, perhaps because it has been used as a film set and location for various TV costume dramas. It is a popular go-to-destination for Chinese and Japanese visitors. We passed a small group of those nationals waving their selfie-sticks around.

There are stories about how the locals were not at all happy about the 1960s production of Dr Doolittle (Rex Harrison version) and sabotaged the set.

St Andrew's Church, Castle Combe
Opposite the Market Cross (ST8420 7720) the White Hart was open so we went in and had a drink. It was warm and there was a lovely fire in the snug, on the basis of beer and service 7 out of 10. We decided to take our drinks outside into the paved garden. It was starting to get a bit chill, “Time for another drink?” “Let’s have a short” - so whisky and brandy all round. Great idea - the next two miles flew by.

The path through the wooded valley was a blur (probably due to the spirits) and we soon emerged at Long Dean, crossed the river and headed up hill. It was time to phone for a taxi. “Can't do anything for an hour, Guv”. “Um, OK we'll try someone else”. Unfortunately by the time we arrived in Ford and stood by the A420, (ST 8425 7487), we had not found anyone else. We have found from bitter experience that trying to get a taxi between 3 and 5pm is difficult (school and college runs). T tried the first company again, success, “Be there in 15 minutes”. We finished off our snacks, N put his trousers on and we had time to reminisce about Mike Leigh films (not too sure how we got onto that as a subject).

We were whisked back into Chippenham in a very comfortable Mercedes and were just in time to catch the rather full train back East.
Soon be in Bath

We managed 8.1 miles, not bad as we were all out of practice.  Really can't think of a letter to sum up the day. Suggestions by email for next time. Can we reach Bath before Christmas 2017? Perhaps – see you all on 28 November.