Cross-Cotswold Pathway: Stage 12

Batheaston to Bath – Friday 15 December 2017

Our plan was to make this a short walk into Bath with a lunch stop in town. We took a later train, 10:43 departure from Didcot to Bath and then caught a bus out to Batheaston. We were impressed with the covered bus station which is only a short step away from Bath Spa railway station. For some reason GWR or Network Rail insist on calling this stop “Bath Spa” to distinguish it from all the other “Baths” in the country (?). After a ten minute wait (enough time for N to buy and mostly consume an upmarket “gourmet” hot pie, we caught the said bus and headed through the pre-Christmas traffic to Batheaston where we left off on our last walk.

Confluence of the By Brook and the Avon

Because this was to be a short walk we had left sticks and packed lunches at home and travelled “light” though P did admit to carrying a packet of supermarket sandwiches just in case we failed to find a suitable dining spot.

Our route headed across the Avon river by means of the path next to the railway bridge just downstream of the confluence with the By Brook. The path then headed across a soggy field and over (with care) a foot-crossing of the railway line to Bradford-on-Avon. This brought us into Bathampton where we joined the Kennet and Avon canal. This was our main route into Bath.

Canalside decorations

A variety of canal boats / barges were moored along the canal, some looking rather smart displaying examples of “bargee-art” others looking rather dilapidated and in need of major repairs and renovation. Most of the barges were occupied with wood-burning stoves adding a smoky haze to the watery sky. In amongst this mixture of water homes were a few larger “Dutch” barges offering (presumably) more comfortable living opportunities.

Swanning around on the K&A

The tow path was well used by dog walkers and cyclists and we were pleased to note that priority was given to pedestrians where the path was used by walkers and cyclists. “Pity certain other boroughs, like Reading, don’t do that”, muttered T.

Cyclists take note!

We left the canal at Sydney Gardens and crossed over the GWR line (Grid Ref: ST7583 6534) noting the problems that installation of overhead wires will cause and amused at the use of unattractive chestnut paling fence to stop people falling onto the line. Past the Holburne Museum and up Great Pulteney Street to Pulteney Bridge (ST7520 6495) where we declared this the end of the walk and P changed his boots for smart shoes. 

Pulteney Bridge, Bath

It was about 13:30 so time to find a pub / restaurant. Remember, dear readers, that this was a Friday, just before Christmas, so finding a place that suited (i) our dress-sense, (ii) our preference for reasonable beer, (iii) need for a table and (iv) importantly food that was edible proved to take some time.

Where's lunch?

... over there.

We headed past the Abbey (apologies the author referred to it as a cathedral at the time) though the busy streets around the Roman Baths but couldn’t find a place that met our exacting standards.

We eventually found the Griffin Inn (ST7477 6486), which offered a variety of craft beers, lagers and ciders. It was warm and we were thirsty so we agreed to have a drink. Normally they did food but they had a pre-booked Christmas lunch on so we decided to send N on ahead to seek out another place.

N returned with good news, he had found a suitable, sit-down, fish restaurant just up the road. So another drink in the Griffin Inn (I proposed we rate it 8 out of 10) and then five minutes up Monmouth Place to the Scallop Shell (ST7464 6493). We had an excellent fish and chip (late lunch) and can recommend this establishment. It’s off the main shopping drag in Bath but not too far from the Theatre Royal. Well-fed and warmed through we returned via a recently decorated pub (The Black Fox, a young person’s place, perhaps, 5 out of 10) and managed to catch an earlier train back home (busy again).

Pulteney Weir, Bath

Well that’s it for the Cross-Cotswold Pathway, we reached Bath by Christmas 2017 having set off from Banbury in February 2016. If we include the wandering around Bath in search of food and drink then we did 4.2 miles in total. Today wasn’t about the distance though, it was about celebrating that we had eventually walked from Banbury to Bath through (for much of the time) beautiful British countryside. B day indeed.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year for 2018.

Nerdy stuff: The Cross-Cotswold Pathway is officially an 86 mile route, we deviated from this route to fit in with the ever declining number of buses that actually stop somewhere, to avoid stretches of pathway that we had walked on before (the nine miles between Sibford Gower to Chastleton House), we skipped the section between North Cerney to Cirencester and we used the Monarch’s Way rather than the Macmillan Way between Tunnel House Inn and Tetbury. According to our route measurements from Google Earth we walked 83.2 miles in 12 stages (days), an average of just less than 7 miles for each walking day.  

Cross-Cotswold Pathway: Stage 11

Ford to Batheaston – Tuesday 28 November 2017

The usual 09:42 departure from Didcot was surprisingly busy heading towards Chippenham so we didn’t really meet until stepping out onto the platform. P had aired doubts about the legality of getting off before our destination but as there are no ticket barriers at Chippenham that really wasn’t a problem. We arrived a few minutes late because the proceeding bi-mode was late, but take heart the current Minister for Transport assures us it is new trains that we want and not fast ones that are on time. Hey Ho!

By Brook river, near Weavern Farm

We took a taxi to Ford on the A420. Chippenham was looking a bit dreary and down at mouth as we passed early morning shoppers. Surely too early for Christmas though the radio channel in the taxi was playing a variety of seasonal tunes. A had picked the front seat again. Being the youngest, N was in the back.

The weather looked promising, there had been quite a bit of rain in the proceeding days but the sun was coming out and while it was cold the sun was warm on our faces when we found it.

The route out of Ford followed a busy road to Colerne and then turned across a field to head down to the By Brook River (followed last time). [Editor’s note: the name of this river is spelt on the OS map as “By Brook” and in the guide book as “Bybrook”. We will keep to the former]. We were to follow this river / stream all the way to its confluence with the Avon at Batheaston.

Slaughterford cottages

St Nicolas church, Slaughterford

The first village was Slaughterford, Grid Ref ST8396 7400, A small church and interesting cottages. According to the guide book St Nicholas's church had been greatly damaged by Cromwell's troops on their way to Ireland (following the coaching route that is now the A420?) and wasn't rebuilt until the late Victorian era. We carried on in good spirits and followed a quiet lane southwards though woods slowly climbing the valley side. The metalled lane gave way to a track known as Weavern Lane. The guide book mentioned that this path could be “often muddy” and so it was. Our progress was slowed and T & P were grateful for their sticks to keep a steady balance as we skirted puddles and slid from side to side.

Weavern farm

A brief stop for “elevenses” and then down another muddy track to cross the By Brook near the ruins of Weavern Farm, (ST8402 7183). The disused buildings seemed to be used as cattle barns. It was surprising to see such a place consigned to barn duties as most buildings around here would be snapped up for up-market renovations. Perhaps this site was just too far from the utilities and a decent access road.

We crossed the By Brook (see picture above), which was growing in size and climbed up a gentle slope to pass through a new kissing gate to follow wet pasture fields towards Widdenham Farm, (ST8348 7081).

At each field gate we had to negotiate a quagmire of mud caused by concentrated cattle movements. Each time we had to repeat a cleaning of the boots only to become clagged up at the next gate or stile.

Mailbox recycling, Widdenham

New kissing gate

By the time we had reached Saltbox farm we had had enough of the poached land and mud so opted for the lane towards Middlehill.

Heading for lunch

The lads were getting restive, it was 13:30 and a lunch break was called for. We found a convenient gate to learn on (ST8245 6951) and stopped for our snacks and watched a Kestrel patrolling the field margin.

After our break we dropped down the slope and rejoined the path at Box Mill and passed under the main railway line just after it emerged from the (famous) Box Tunnel.

This is where we said goodbye to the Macmillan Way proper and turned westwards towards Bath. The path followed the route parallel to the, the A4 and the railway across yet more soggy fields.

Shockerwick House

There was an attractive large house at Shockerwick, (ST8049 6861), we guessed it was Georgian and speculated who it belonged to. Signs later on indicated that it was a Bupa care home. Investigations on Wikipedia later confirmed that it was Georgian.

We were now in Somerset though it wasn't clear where the county boundary had been. Not far now, a short walk along Shockerwick Lane and then we followed a path down to the main A4. The bus stop (ST7865 6714) was just up the road towards the roundabout.

Skyline wires

Just as we sighted the bus stop a bus came up behind us. Luckily a friendly bus driver slowed down and waited for us the canter down the road to the bus stop. There was no time to pass round the hip-flask of sloe gin, perhaps next time. A short ride into Bath and we got off just round the corner from Bath Spa station. We popped into the Café au Lait, opposite the station for a glass of wine/beer. A friendly enough establishment though the wine wasn't much cop.

Caught the 16:13 back towards London. Yet again a very crowded train. We had to change at Swindon but the following train from Wales was quite empty (must be something about Bristol after all).

 

By Brook valley

Another 8.2 miles, this is impressive in view of all the mud. That leaves us with a gentle saunter of 3.5 miles into Bath next time, (15 December). Looks like we are going to get to Bath for Christmas 2017 after all. By the way it has to be M for mud day!

Cross-Cotswold Pathway: Stage 10

Luckington to Ford Friday 3 November 2017

There has been a break of nearly four months since we were last in Luckington. The autumn colours were now well developed and many leaves had fallen. We were treated to hollowed-out Halloween pumpkins that had been tricked into sitting on door steps for over a week now and were looking a bit forlorn in the mist. Nevertheless here we were again in a brand new taxi travelling from Chippenham station to the village of Luckington. Having picked the short straw, A was in the front listening to the driver discussing the merits of various vehicles and holiday breaks!

For those of you interested in the travelling arrangements we had been on the “usual” train from Didcot (09:42 departure) taking advantage of train split fares to make the journey affordable. N got a good deal from Oxford but we suspected it was one of those super APEX tickets that weren’t actually valid for the train he was on. Anyhow let's draw a veil over that and get back to the walk.

Blasted Oak

The path followed the Macmillan Way out of Luckington across pasture fields wet with dew and recent rain. Our trouser legs were soon wet though N was fine as he was wearing shorts (it couldn't have been that cold). After about a mile and a half we realised that we had strayed from the path due to a combination of chatting, and the farmer ploughing up the path. We doubted the direction so a combination of compass bearings, GPS coordinates and close inspection of the map meant that we had to track around the field that was being ploughed as we stood there. A (we think) was impressed with our navigation! We crossed another field of winter wheat and were rewarded with the Macmillan Way sign on the next footpath post at Hebden Leaze (Grid Ref: ST8268 8230)

Unblasted Oak

Having re-established our route across an open field (even though the path had been ploughed up) the chat turned to catching up on family news and foreign travel (business and leisure). By the time we had downloaded the sun had burnt off the mist and we dropped down the slope to go under the railway to the east of Badminton. “Pity the station at Badminton closed it would be a really useful stop for the southern Cotswolds”.  We waited a bit to see if one of the new bi-mode trains would pass but nothing came along.

No train : bi-mode or otherwise

We climbed up the slight slope through attractive, small pastures surrounded by old hedges and oak trees.

As we approached Littleton Drew, the sole on A's boot left close-company from the rest of his boot. However, he engineered a solution with the laces to keep his boot in reasonable order for the rest of the day. (He is an engineer after all).

All Saints church, Littleton Drew

Village library

It was lunchtime so we took advantage of the posh bench in the middle of this small village opposite the church, to have our sandwiches/rolls/sushi! This was a pretty village though there was no obvious shop or pub.

The village phone box had been converted into a lending library. The village was quiet apart from the constant rumble of traffic from the M4 which was about 0.5 km away.

Posh bench

After lunch our path followed the road under said motorway and after crossing the B4039 we walked down the lane to the attractive mill at Goulter's Mill Farm (ST8326 7908). There was a bit more confusion with the route on the other side of the valley. We opted for the path up the hill and came out correctly at the Lugbury Long Barrow or what remains of it, (ST8307 7856).

Lugbury Long Barrow

The path took a dog leg and then passed over the line of the Fosse Way at Lugbury Farm. Here was our first sign of the goal of our walk – Bath (see below).

Bybrook river, Netherton Mill

Welcome to Castle Combe

Another lane took us downhill to Netherton Mill on the Bybrook river, (ST8335 7755).  It looked like the buildings had been renovated and turned into holiday lets. The scenery had changed and we were now in the well-manicured landscape of a golf course. There were several golfers around driving their buggies and swinging their drivers (plan was to say something witty here).

Market cross, Castle Combe

We passed several walkers and then climbed a short slope up though a wood to come out above the village of Castle Combe (lower village). This is really a strange, unreal place, perhaps because it has been used as a film set and location for various TV costume dramas. It is a popular go-to-destination for Chinese and Japanese visitors. We passed a small group of those nationals waving their selfie-sticks around.

There are stories about how the locals were not at all happy about the 1960s production of Dr Doolittle (Rex Harrison version) and sabotaged the set.

St Andrew's Church, Castle Combe

Opposite the Market Cross (ST8420 7720) the White Hart was open so we went in and had a drink. It was warm and there was a lovely fire in the snug, on the basis of beer and service 7 out of 10. We decided to take our drinks outside into the paved garden. It was starting to get a bit chill, “Time for another drink?” “Let’s have a short” - so whisky and brandy all round. Great idea - the next two miles flew by.

The path through the wooded valley was a blur (probably due to the spirits) and we soon emerged at Long Dean, crossed the river and headed up hill. It was time to phone for a taxi. “Can't do anything for an hour, Guv”. “Um, OK we'll try someone else”. Unfortunately by the time we arrived in Ford and stood by the A420, (ST 8425 7487), we had not found anyone else. We have found from bitter experience that trying to get a taxi between 3 and 5pm is difficult (school and college runs). T tried the first company again, success, “Be there in 15 minutes”. We finished off our snacks, N put his trousers on and we had time to reminisce about Mike Leigh films (not too sure how we got onto that as a subject).

We were whisked back into Chippenham in a very comfortable Mercedes and were just in time to catch the rather full train back East.

Soon be in Bath

We managed 8.1 miles, not bad as we were all out of practice.  Really can't think of a letter to sum up the day. Suggestions by email for next time. Can we reach Bath before Christmas 2017? Perhaps – see you all on 28 November.