K2KS (Kingham to Kings Sutton – stage 1) plus an Oxford walk

Kingham station to Chipping Norton – Friday 9 October 2015

Oh dear, December already and its ages since we last walked in earnest. When we completed the Seven Shires Way on 7 August we agreed that we would keep walking and plan something special to start in the New Year (2016).

In the mean time we thought we would find some walks to fill in the gap. The route of the old railway from Kingham to Kings Sutton part of the line from Cheltenham to Banbury seemed interesting. Whilst not an official long distance path the route appeared interesting cutting West to East across the county and filling in some gaps.

The railway line ?

The railway was opened in 1855 and closed in the early 1960s due to the “Beeching” cuts (more details in the “Lost railways of Oxfordshire” by Terry Moors published by Countryside Books).

A misty veil in a Cotswold vale

So back into the Cotswolds again to arrive just before 10am at Kingham station. Our aim was to walk roughly along the line of the old railway using existing footpaths and roads.  It was a beautiful autumn day, with a low mist clinging to the countryside where trees were already turning colour.

We crossed the old line at Grid Ref: SP2591 2310 and walked into Kingham village watching the mist gently lift around St. Andrews church (SP2586 2371). Kingham was a village unknown to us. T declared that he had no relatives or historical family links to the place.

Misty Kingham church

Harvest festival time

Past a pub/inn with an excellent harvest festival display above the entrance door and out along the road towards Churchill.

We then turned off at (SP2692 2453) and followed a bridle way towards Swailsford Bridge (SP2817 2646). The countryside looked very manicured and “estate-like” with well-kept hedges and field edges.

As we hadn't met for some time we used the time to catch up on news, work, retirement, DIY, families, politics and plans for the future. We stopped for a while to have a first sandwich/roll/cuppa of the day. The ground was too wet to sit but we leaned on a convenient gate and enjoyed the sunshine and blue sky. The peace of the countryside was only disturbed by a muck spreader in a nearby field and a near-by scare-crow that caught in the side of the eye and we kept turning around thinking someone was approaching.

Can you see the scare-crow?

We ambled on, paralleling the old railway, and passed a group of walkers. These were the only people we saw all morning and seemed to be out for a short walk before heading off to a local hostelry. Emerging at Swailsford Bridge, we followed a small road and then turned onto a footpath across a scrappy field of weeds and poor drainage to head eastwards towards Chipping Norton.

Distant Salford

On through a field of sheep and up Cornwell Hill where we had a view of Salford to the north (last visited on the Shakespeare Way on 3 September 2010.)

Some convenient logs to sit and rest! The track then took us along to the A44 main road towards “Chippy” or “Chippie”.

Bliss tweed mill

After a traffic-busy half mile we crossed over Chipping Norton Common with its iconic view of the old Bliss Tweed Mill (one of the reasons that the railway was promoted was to connect the tweed mill to the main railway at Kingham.)

 The site of the disused railway station is now a light industrial estate (hidden from the town centre, of course!) We climbed up the hill and emerged onto the A44 just where we left off on the Shakespeare Way five years ago!

Chippy church

Now was our chance to complete the section of the SW that we missed back in 2010. So we headed towards the ornate church and the past the alms houses in Church Street (SP3131 2728) that we skirted last time.

Chipping Norton Alms Houses

"Good stuff! That’s completed,  so is it time for a lunchtime drink?” The pub we went into last time (The Fox) was closed, undergoing refurbishment so we went around the corner in to The Kings Arms. 

The beer was OK but the decor was not very special, 5 out of 10, however it was convenient for the bus stops.

 N & T planned to return to Oxford on the S3 (better for N) but as he has a return ticket from Kingham, P returned to Kingham station and took the train home from there.

Tired-out at disused Chipping Norton station

 An Oxford walk - Friday 6 November 2015

N's work commitments meant that we couldn't rely on walking until November. So we planned to meet again on 6 November to start on the Cotswold Round, Banbury to Bath on the Cross-Cotswold pathway (86 miles) and then back via the Cotswold Way to Chipping Camden (100 miles) and then on the Cotswold Link (21 miles) to Banbury.

Research on the transport options meant that we would have to start from Banbury and head west to either Swalcliffe or Epwell. Well to cut a long story short the forecast of heavy rain all day on 6 November helped us to decide to stay in Oxford and plan the route more carefully. We met up at Oxford station and headed to the coffee bar in the basement of the Ashmolean museum.

After about an hour of getting up-to-date, drinking coffee and eating pastries, we set off into a grey, rain-spitting Oxford day, north up St Giles and across to Keble Road and into the University Parks and then East to cross the Cherwell towards Marston. When we got to the college sports fields we turned south and joined a busy footpath actually it’s the Marston cycle way between Marston and South Parks Road. Not such an easy walk as cyclists appeared impatient with three old gits wandering along. When we reached the rollers on the river (where a punt can be manhandled past a weir, we turned south again, missed the path known as the Mesopotamia Walk, and ended up wandering around the modern concrete buildings of St Catherine's college. There was no way out into Magdalen College grounds so we retraced our steps, and emerged into Manor Road, past St Cross church where T's parents were married and the small school where T's Mum went to primary school.

Holywell was full of students apparently rushing off for lunch in various whole-food organic sandwich bars and noddle shops. N suggested visiting the Turf tavern (8 out of 10) instead of our usual HQ. A couple of lunchtime drinks (their own brew) while we watched a succession of tourists pop in, nearly hit their heads on the low beams and then (we guess) “facebook” their experience to followers back home, wherever that was. We agreed to walk before Christmas (18 December?). In view of restricted day light we agreed to find something in the Oxford area.

Autumn colours

In summary, the 9 October was a lovely autumn day in the hinterland of the Cotswolds. We managed a gentle 6 miles of our invented K2KS and ticked off those missing metres of the Shakespeare Way. Surprisingly, we walked 4 miles on 6 November if you count starting and finishing  at Oxford station! It didn't rain that much and by all accounts it wasn't that wet in northern Oxfordshire – never mind!

The Seven Shires Way - Stage 26

Kingham station to Moreton-in-Marsh station - Friday 7 August 2015

So this is it the last leg of our trek around Oxfordshire  - in a clockwise direction (is that significant?)The weather looked promising as we enjoyed the train to Kingham. T had caught it at Reading and P and N joined the train at Oxford along with a crowd of festival goers heading for a gathering at Cornbury (Charlbury) and a family of cyclists - complete with their bikes!

We came from over there

Anyhow we arrived at Kingham at 09:50 and set off to retrace our steps to Bledington to pick up the route across the fields and the old railway from Kingham to Cheltenham. Fairly good progress across the quiet Evenlode flood plain along a path that would be extremely muddy if the weather had been rainy. Emerged into a field of young calves who had just been released into the big green world and then crossed the river and Oxford to Worcester railway just south of Daylesford (Grid Ref: SP2428 2558).

We were very close to Adlestrop made famous by the poem of the same name by Edward Thomas. According to Wikipedia Adlestrop House is thought to have been used as the model for the house in “Mansfield Park” by Jane Austen.

Daylesford Park

Past Daylesford Farm (an award winning organic farm and shop featured not that long ago on the BBC's farming programme). We didn't stop for morning coffee.

It was starting to get warm in the sun as we turned north-eastwards to parallel the county boundary. There was a fine herd of Gloucestershire cattle in the field, source of milk for Double Gloucester cheese.

Gloucester cattle

Carried on up the hill. Umh! We hadn't realised there would be any climbing this walk. “Bet we lose all the height again” said one of our cheery band! In the woods there was a helicopter warning sign.  We were walking through posh land indeed.

Distant Chippy

Through equally posh stables and buildings of Daylesford Hill farm with its statute to apparently a famous horse (SP2572 2660) and then on to follow the county boundary and a lunch stop at SP2659 4266 above the small village of Cornwell. We hadn't realise how close we were to Chipping Norton which we could see on the hill to the east.

Cornwell

 After our short lunch we descended (“Told you we would lose all that height”) and skirted Cornwell to head north-westwards towards Chastelton. Cornwell, so our book tells us, was restored by Clough Williams-Ellis, who designed Portmeirion in North Wales. No Italianate buildings here or pottery churning out pieces of “Cornwell” ware for the tourist trade.

Slogged up the minor road across the A436 and took a rest at Chastleton Barrow, an iron-age enclosure, (SP2580 2828). After a 20 to 30 minute rest / sleep we moved on through a field of very fine black cattle (Aberdeen Angus?) a mixture of cows, calves and bull(s). “Isn't there some guidance to farmers strongly suggesting that cows with calves and bulls shouldn't be put in fields crossed by footpaths?” Anyhow we carefully skirted the animals who were happy to remain lying down and emerged through a kissing gate onto the road just above the car park to the National Trust property of Chastleton House.

Chastleton House

T had been there before so suggested diverting through the car park and down the hill side to the Church next to the House for afternoon tea. A local volunteer group serve tea and homemade cakes to eager NT visitors. We found a table and chairs among the gravestones and in the shade of a yew tree had a very welcome mug of tea and a slice of cake each. This was N's treat, which was greatly appreciated.

Afternoon tea

It was about 15:15. After finishing the crumbs of cake and draining our mugs we decided to head to Moreton-in-Marsh on the more direct minor road route, deviating from the recommended footpaths but hopefully saving some time.

We now set off on a four mile walk back to Moreton-in-Marsh, stopping on the way to celebrate the end of the route at the Four Shire Stones, next to the busy A44, (SP2305 3216). It was three years since we were last here on the start of the walk. Older? – yes. Wiser?- doubtful, but certainly happy to have completed the walk even if we had taken ages over it and taken some strategic short cuts in the process. Took numerous pictures and then headed off to catch the homeward train in Moreton-in-Marsh. T was certain there was a train at 18:10 but also thought there was a train at 16:40ish. “We can make it. If not we can visit a pub in town.”

Hats off

As we crossed the railway there was the train leaving, 16:22. “Sorry chaps I knew it was 16 something.” Well looks like its pub time. We slowly ambled towards the station. “No wait”. We inspected the timetable there is another train at 16:45. So long wait avoided and we'll save the pub for another day. After another pleasant day walking we were on the train home with thoughts and ideas about what we could do next.

In summary: Today it was 12.2 miles, our longest leg (section) of the Seven Shires way. Today was perhaps F day – finally finished, fine weather, and fab. Tea.

Four shires stone

It has taken us three years,  in 26 legs or sections to do this walk, officially 234 miles but we did it in 226 miles, (doubt if we qualify for the badge), which included some on and offs and some short cuts and avoidance of bits we had walked before.

A fascinating walk with lots of contrast from the hyphenated locales of the Cotswolds, to the ironstone villages near Banbury. Up onto the beech-wooded Chilterns from the flat clay lands near Bicester. Through smart villages with no shops near Henley and Burford and across the open horse-racing downs in the south of the county.

Memories are numerous and varied: Windy bus stations in Banbury and Swindon. A range of pubs - from the scruffy to carpeted establishments but with several that were delightful and quirky. Sadly many of these great places are now closed.  A  tea shop in Warwickshire, that served wine, a pub like a castle, tea and cake in a graveyard and an inn whose car park contained two Ferraris and a Lamborghini. Often we seem to have been chased by a variety of cattle in fields all around the county, (its probably all in the mind.) Transport memories of buses that were late (sometimes) or never actually turned up, and helpful and talkative taxi drivers.

Daylesford tree

What is surprising is how few people we have actually ever seen on the walks. True we tended to be walking on a Friday but much of the countryside of Oxfordshire and its neighbours is apparently deserted. Perhaps it was because we were on the borders.

At times our progress has been hampered by work commitments (for some), sore knees, barbed wire, broken styles, poor signage and even poorer map reading, floods and poor weather.

Overall though it has been enjoyable and just shows how easy it is to find different places within a short distance from our respective homes.

Any way enough of this. Let’s plan for something else soon.

The Seven Shires Way - Stage 25

Great Barrington to Kingham station - Friday 26 June 2015

Yet again we are on the S2 bus to Carterton sharing stories about how we made it (slowly) back to Oxford last time. Pretty sure this will be the last time we will see Carterton! Ace taxis out to Great Barrington where we left off at the beginning of June. How time flies we are already past mid-summer with 180 or so days to Christmas! (Sorry).

Weather looked good for walking and we set off at a fair pace across fields with great displays of wild flowers (scabious, corn flowers, poppies, etc) in a generally northerly direction to the accompaniment of Skylarks and other small brown (unidentified) birds. Picked up the county boundary at Miletree Clump (Grid ref: SP2146 1578) to then head south eastwards. The county boundary certainly zig-zags around.  Followed the “zig” for half a mile and then “zagged” NE towards Tangley Hall. As we descended through woods to the Hazleford Brook (sometime tributary of the River Windrush) we realized it was quite humid so we  were pleased to get back into a breeze on top of the hill near Tangley Hall (SP2338 1687). This hamlet was well (and apparently expensively) fenced against all intruders, human or animal, but we could see the tennis courts through gaps in the fence.

Fields of barley

Stopped for elevenses (first sandwich of the day - N had missed his meat pie / pasty in Carterton!) Discussed future walks, what are we going to do when we finish this three year epic? We took a vote on which way to go. Should we follow the recommended route towards Little Rissington airfield (disused) or save some time and head straight towards Fifield? We opted (sensibly as it turned out) for the latter. So pushed on up over the A424 (main road from Burford to Stow on the Wold) and down through rape and barley fields to the pretty village of Fifield. We found a convenient bench and had another sandwich, sushi, coffee, etc and watched a selection of horses and dogs taking their owners for a walk. The village was quiet and didn't seem to sport a pub or shop.

Large house, Idbury

Right then chaps the next village is Idbury. Ok, time to put on the rain gear as clouds had built up and it was starting to spot with rain. Nothing too bad though. Across several stiles and passed one of the dog walkers again (walking faster than us on her clockwise sojourn). Didn't see too much of Idbury, several large houses behind high hedges and walls.

We were now getting back to the area we last saw seven years ago when starting out on the Oxfordshire Way. Little did we think that we were at the beginning of a trek across, through and around Oxfordshire all those years ago.

We often mention following or crossing the county boundary but this time we thought we would share with you an obvious change of road surface just outside Nether Westcote (SP2291 2017).  Gloucestershire Highways had just re-surfaced the road and made sure they hadn't strayed into Oxfordshire. We went wrong in Nether Westcote and turned down the first lane so missed the main part of the small village. There was a pub marked on the map but it was no longer the New Inn but now a hotel cum smart (allegedly) dining place ideal for a Cotswold weekend.

Spot the join

We then descended the scarp slope down onto the clays lands of the Evenlode valley. The guide book warned that the bridleway towards Bledington could be very muddy. Well it was right, we hadn't had any significant rain for several weeks and still there were muddy spots to be negotiated.  After about a mile and a half of deeply rutted path we came across a strangely mown path which then headed out towards a deeply ploughed field where we joined the Oxforshire Way. (Hooray!). On the way we examined the deep plough furrows for erratic (ex-glacial) stones and N loaded up his pockets with interesting sand stone pebbles from the Midlands.

We were getting tired and thirsty so were looking forward to getting to Bledington. Stopped near the churchyard for the final sandwich and snack and then headed towards the Kings Head pub for a couple of drinks. We are last here in 2008.

 “Not too much”, cautioned P, “we've still to walk to Kingham Station.”(Just over a mile away along the busy B4450).

Arrived at Kingham station (SP2564 2276) in time to catch an HST back to Oxford and Reading along with school children eager to return home from a variety of private/public schools in the Kingham / Chipping Norton area. Great - we are back on a train. Next time we won’t need to use the bus!

By the way, T forgot the camera so photos courtesy of N and his phone.

In summary: 10.7 miles today. With any luck we should be able to complete that whole walk next time. G day – goodbye Carterton, goodbye S2 bus and a grand-day-out. See you next month.